Wood & Epoxy Hexagon Coasters

Wood & Epoxy Hexagon Coasters

hi I’m Marie from DIY Montreal, and today
I’m going to show you how to build these wooden epoxy hexagons coasters. Now if
you’re not ready to jump on the epoxy bandwagon just yet
I get it. that’s why I’ll also show you how to build these all wood versions of
these coasters too. so want to see how I built them? let’s get to it. Coasters are
always a fun project because I can typically just rummage through my lumber
cart and find whatever hardwood scraps I have on hand, even some leftover
floorboards from my recent kitchen renovation. these offcuts were in pretty
good shape but I need to plane down the backside of the floorboards in order to
get rid of the grooves, so I’m just going to run them through the planer a few
times and get them flat on both sides. I did this for all my wood scraps not
concerned with the final thickness at this point. I also removed the tongue and
grooves from the floorboards. okay so I have some walnut, some cedar planks, a
couple of strips of cherry, and my birch floors all milled up and ready to go. I
reached into my lumber card again and grabbed some melamine boards that I’ll use to make the epoxy molds. I’m going to make three molds that are 18 by 4 inches. after cutting all the pieces here I’m
covering each one with sheathing tape so the epoxy won’t stick to the forms. I used
some clamps to hold them all together while I assembled it with screws making
sure to keep all the seams as tight as possible. next I applied silicone to all
the inside seams to make sure none of the epoxy would seep out.
I really hate applying silicone; always makes a big mess but you can always
clean it up once it’s dried. okay so I’m going to try a few different looks for
the coasters the first being walnut and white epoxy. my wood is just over half an
inch thick at this point aiming for a final coaster thickness of around 3/8
of an inch when all is said and done. I snuck up on the cut to get an exact fit
for the mold wanting to avoid leaving any gaps that the epoxy might get into.
before you mix up any resin it’s important to make sure your mold is
level so you don’t end up with the thick side and a thin side. I used a few shims
to level out the form and I also made sure to clamp down the wood so it
wouldn’t end up floating in the epoxy. I’m trying out Chill clear epoxy which
is designed for half-inch thick pours. it has a 2:1 ratio so I measured out
two parts A and one Part B making sure to scrape down the sides of the cup each
time. after stirring the epoxy mix for about 5 minutes
I added some white Russian metallic pigment and mixed it some more.
I wanted the white to be really rich and almost opaque so I ended up adding a few
more scoops of pigment until I was happy with it.
once it’s well mixed all that’s left is to enjoy the pour. now if you’ve ever
seen someone work with epoxy you’ve probably noticed that they’ll use a
blowtorch or a heat gun to pop the air bubbles on the surface. the instructions
for this brand say that’s not necessary and actually say to avoid
this, so I’m just gonna let the air bubbles pop naturally as they recommend.
my 2nd coaster set is going to be made up of birch hardwood floors with a
bright blue epoxy strip off-center. once again I’m measuring out two parts A
and one Part B, and mixing it up. If you’re interested, you’ll find more
details on Chill epoxy and where to buy it in the video’s description below.
this one’s called Spring Break regrets. before pouring I made sure my mold was
perfectly level and clamped down my wood strips to hold them down in place. boy do
I love this colour and how it pops with the white wood! okay so if you’re not a
fan of epoxy the next one’s for you. This one’s going to be all wood. I’m setting my table saw fence to half an inch, and I’ll leave it there as I cut all the
strips from the various wood species I want to use, since the idea is to glue up
a blank that’ll be half an inch thick. once all my strips are cut and laid out
I see a strip of walnut that’s a little wider than I’d like, so I’m going to rip
that down into thinner strips as well. this is where my Grr-ripper with the thin 1/8 of an inch leg really comes in handy.
next it’s time for the glue up. I’ve laid out my clamps and set a caul on each end. yes, I could have pre-cut all my pieces to the same length, but I just skipped right
to the glue up. I flipped all of the pieces onto their sides and added enough
glue to fully cover each strip with the help of a glue brush. I applied just enough
clamping pressure to get a little squeeze out, but not too much as to
force the thin strips out of alignment. go gentle here. I added a couple more
clamps and let it dry overnight. After it dried, I could trim off the excess using my mini table saw sled and it was at this point where I realized that I made a mistake. let me explain. so when I first decided
how long I would make my blanks for the four hexagon coasters, I measured like
this. I needed 16 inches so I went with 18 inches just to be safe. however I
realized that I laid them out wrong. I should have actually measured them like
this, which means I won’t have enough to make four coasters. are sets of three a
thing? nevertheless I kept moving forward with the project. with all my blanks
dried it’s time to run them through the planer to flatten them on both sides and
bring them down to their final thickness, around 3/8 of an inch or 1 centimeter.
I ran the board through one side at a time, slowly lowering the cutter head as
I went until the board was smooth and flat on both sides. we’re almost ready to
cut the hexagons but first I want to trim my blank so the width is close to
the width of this template I made. you don’t have to do this, but if your blank
is wider than it needs to be your four coasters won’t be perfectly identical. as
a maker not all of my projects turn out looking as good as I had pictured in my
head and the next attempt is one of those. I wanted to make a set that was 100% percent epoxy using a mix of “dirty dog” and “gold digger”. I poured a few layers until I had enough in the mold, about half an inch. I wanted to create a
swirl effect so I stirred the mix but after about 15 minutes when I came back
it would look like a big blob. so I’d swirl again. it seems that that was a
mistake and it turned into something inspired by Van Gogh… not what I was
going for. apparently you should wait until the
epoxy starts to thicken like honey and only then should you swirl. lesson
learned. back to the walnut and white epoxy mold
that has now dried for two days and it’s ready to come out of the mold.
I was afraid I might have issues de-molding it but the sheathing tape worked really well. the bottom was a little harder to get
off but after getting the tip of a putty knife in it was easy to wedge open and
pry off. as you can see the epoxy is lower than
the wood and there’s some that seeped underneath, so I’m going to clean that
all up on my planer. I figured it would be easier to sand now before I cut the
hexagons so I started with 120 grit and worked my way up to 220 grit. I would
have gone up to 320 but I ran out of paper. you’ll see with the finish there
aren’t any visible scratches so it looks like 220 grit was enough. to cut the
hexagons I’m going to use this hexagon cutting sled that I made a while back. I
have a separate video for this that you can check out too. the way it works is
that I first remove this stop so I can fit the blank and make the first cut. it
helps to first cut a template that you can use to position the blank in order
to minimize wastage. after making the first cut I can put the
stop back into place and clamp it down, then it’s just a matter of nesting it up
against the stops and cutting one side at a time, rotating the piece as you go. I
took my time to always make sure the piece was properly seated with no gaps
before making each cut, otherwise it’s easy to throw your hexagons out of whack.
once the first hexagon is done, grab the offcut and repeat the same process
moving the piece around in a clockwise direction as you go. I did the same for
the other blanks I had made making the first cut with a backstop removed and
then putting it back into position for the remaining cuts. if you’re interested
in building this jig I have a video that you can watch by clicking the link in
the top right corner and I’ll also leave a link in the description below. as I mentioned before I didn’t make my
blanks long enough so on the last hexagon I ended up short as you can see.
so I guess someone is getting a set of three coasters this year… oh well.
once all the coasters were cut I sanded all the edges and then cleaned off the
sawdust using denatured alcohol. it evaporates really fast so you can almost
immediately apply finish afterwards and it also gives you a nice preview of what
they’re going to look like. As a finish, I’m using Osmo Polyx-oil. it’s a hard wax oil mix that’s water-resistant and I like how it gives the wood a really deep rich look while making the epoxy nice and shiny. hey I hope you like this epoxy
experiment and if you did please give it a thumbs up! if you’re not already
subscribed to the channel I love to have you so be sure to hit that subscribe
button and tap the bell – until next time thanks for watching
see you soon!

31 thoughts on “Wood & Epoxy Hexagon Coasters

  1. Hello my friend,
    Epoxy hexagonal cup made of wood is a great idea. I watched it curiously. You did good. Congratulations. Thank you for sharing.

  2. Those turned out awesome! 👏👏 I really like them all! 😊 I’ll have to build one of those sleds too… looks like it’s so handy! 😊 Thanks for sharing!

  3. Hello. First thing came to my mind, how is the saw blade responding to cutting epoxy.
    Should I use cheep blade for cutting epoxy?

  4. Great video and neat project. I haven’t tried large amounts of epoxy for anything yet, just filling small holes or tears in wood. But the colors are great and your hex cutting jig looks quite useful.

  5. springbreak regrets 🤣👏🏻
    Dirty dog
    Gold digger

    Idk who came up with those names or why but boy o'boy, I'm sure glad they did. I'm definitely going to buy these just because of that. Best names ever!! And they do go with their respective colors 😐.

    Loved this project

  6. Interesting – just realised that I have some epoxy past its use-by date (structural) so I could experiment … Thanks for another great video and inspiration ; your kitchen looks great by the way !

  7. Wonderful job on the machine; the concept of making a set of coasters
    from wood epoxy combination is appreciated; Thank you for the video.

  8. So what's your opinion on this type of epoxy? I've seen it around before but haven't heard much of how it differs from the other brands

  9. I really love the ones with the blue epoxy. Don't beat yourself up with the all-epoxy coasters. I think those look great too.

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