Stock Box! Annyeong! Welcome to Dollightful. Previously on the stock box, you voted to see a dragon custom! I was excited for this one, because I’ve loved dragons ever since I was a little girl, and with the recent release of the Spyro Reignited trilogy, my enthusiasm for this project is through the roof! Let’s see who’s available to use as a base. Who’s left in here? You know, it occurs to me that newcomers to this hobby are having a harder time getting their hands on good dolls to customize. Someone unfamiliar might not realize that Monster High’s older releases are much higher quality than the new ones, and since our favorite brands have now come to an end, we’re having to start looking elsewhere for quality doll bases, but, that’s a topic to unpack in another video. I narrowed it down to these three dolls, all with different potential, and turned to you guys for help on Instagram and Twitter. Venus won the vote, and you can see why. She’s got yellow-green skin- that’s a classic dragon color- and her slim, angular features already lend themselves to a magical creature. Some people might say Venus was an obvious and cliché choice for a dragon, but there’s a difference between classic and stereotypical. As an illustrator trained in game character concept art, this is a topic which I deal with quite frequently. How can we take something as overused as a dragon and make it unique? This is where I turn to the aforementioned Spyro Reignited games, which demonstrate this perfectly. The artists return to the common European style dragons we all know and love from the original games, and updated them with beautiful new designs and colors. Each dragon has a theme, like an item or character trait that dominates their design, but each retains that classic dragon look. This keeps them feeling fresh and new without looking cliché. See what I mean? If you couldn’t tell, I’m really inspired by this game. So, fangirl moment aside, let’s start customizing Venus. There’s a lot of firsts for me in this video, so buckle up! First we’re going to strip down the doll to its bare base. This involves cutting off all the hair and wiping off the face with acetone. Dunk her into hot water for about 30 seconds, and then pop off her squishy head! Doll customizing would sound so weird out of context, huh? The flocking was stubborn, so I poured a shallow pool of acetone into a jar, let that soak in, then scraped it off with a chopstick. Tug the rest of the hair plugs out of the head through the neck hole, and our doll is ready to customize! We’re going to try our hand at head shrinking. You heard that right! I’ve wanted to try this ever since I saw Tamaki’s video over a year ago. She references Dirili’s blog in videos, which gives an in-depth analysis on doll head shrinking, so I did the same. At first I thought I’d try the slow shrinking method by mixing 70% acetone with 30% water. However, I accidentally reversed the ratios, so virtually nothing happened. It took me two sessions to realize my mistake. What a waste of time! Not willing to wait much longer, I decided to heck with it and went for the 100% acetone fast shrink approach. Fill a large jar with ample space around the head, with enough acetone to submerge it. Now set your head aside and let it pickle for about two hours. This is the fun part because I’m always looking for more ways to freak out houseguests! Alright. While her head is pickling, let’s work on the body modifications. First up is a great big pair of dragon wings. Of course, it’s up to personal preference. You can give her cute and small wings, like real Monster High dolls often have, but I wanted to go full dragon! She’s going to have a massive set of articulated wings. So, I sketch out a rough plan on paper first. It changed a bit, but it was a good idea to have a reference for size. I knew these would have to be lightweight if they stood any chance of holding a pose, so I decided popsicle sticks and small bolts and nuts was our best option. I think I’ve been calling these screws in previous videos, but they’re bolts because they have a blunt end. Sorry for using the incorrect terminology. So, each knuckle of the wing will get one bolt and one nut. Take a drill bit the same size as your bolt and make all the necessary holes. I recommend going very slowly because the wood wants to split. I split at least five or six times before I got the hang of it. Here’s what it looks like so far! To allow for a third dimension of movement, I’m going to use hinges to attach the wings to her back. I need this piece to be an L shape, so I glued a couple sticks together to get this and drilled more holes that line up with the hinge. Looks kind of funny on its own, but it makes a strong base piece for the wing. You can see here that I use two layers of sticks nearest to the bases of the wings for strength, but went with single sticks everywhere else to keep it lightweight. To make this look a little less like an artsy craftsy popsicle stick project, draw some bone-like curves onto your sticks, and then whittle them down with carving tools. This makes them look much more organic. Sand the edges down for a nice finish. After drilling holes into the body that line up with the hinges, let’s try a mock-up! Looks pretty cool already! Let’s carry on with our popsicle stick nuts-and-bolts approach and tackle the legs. We’ll be giving this doll digitigrade legs by cutting the legs at the shin and adding another joint. I want to give her big old clawed feet, too. If you’ve been with me for a while, you know that I tend to use armature wire and Apoxie Sculpt to create new joints. They function pretty well in the end, but it takes a lot of work to get there. I wonder if we can make the same mechanisms, but with popsicle sticks? You can see all the pieces roughly laid out here. Each leg joint- I guess it’s technically the ankle- uses three pieces. Two on the bottom leg and one on top. You could switch these positions, but I find two on the bottom looks more natural. I also needed to drill holes through every single toe piece, which was easier said than done, because they’re so hard to get a hold of! Now to connect the wood to the plastic legs. The toes won’t be carrying much weight and won’t have too much stress on them, so I figured hot glue will do the job. I build up more glue around the base, which isn’t pretty, but we’ll cover it up later. The ankle joints do need to be more securely attached, so I drill even more holes into these pieces so that I can feed a wire through and secure it to the doll. Nudge the pieces around until they line up nice and snug, and then add glue to make the position permanent. You could use hot glue here, too, but if you really want to go the extra mile and make the attachment super-strong, opt for the two-part Apoxie. As the glue hardens, go ahead and screw the bolt in place to ensure they’re correctly positioned. The toes are articulated, but even the smallest hardware I could find looks too large and clunky, so I need to think of some other way to connect the tootsies. How about these tteokbokki skewers? They’re a close fit, but a little loose, so I delicately glue strips of computer paper around until they reach that perfect thickness to make the joint stiff. There, I think this will work. It looks much cleaner than the bolts, at least. Popsicle stick stage done! Sometimes I over complicate projects or use strange materials or methods to achieve something, which can be entertaining, but perhaps not that helpful to other customizers, so I was excited to show you the way I modified this doll because it can be done very easily with common hardware and craft supplies. So if you’ve been on the fence about trying more difficult modifications, I highly recommend this method. So, we’ve done the legs, claws, and wing structures. You’re probably thinking she’s obviously missing one thing- the tail! To balance out her wings, I want her to have a similarly massive tail. Similar to how Moonlight Jewel Dolls created her gorgeous mermaid tail, I’ll be taking the ball jointed doll approach to making my dragon tail. Only unlike Elisa, I want to avoid resin at all costs, because frankly, I’m not in the mood. However, the taut nature of the structure means each segment will rub against each other, so painted clay pieces are out of the question. If I make it out of colored polymer clay, it’s gonna be too heavy. Is this possible without casting resin pieces? Honestly, I don’t know that much about clay, so I asked my friend NerdEcrafter, and she suggested air dry clay. How convenient! I happen to have La Doll air dry clay, which I bought to sculpt my own doll in 2018. I swear I’m gonna get to it this year. But hey, this will be a good way to familiarize myself with the medium and dip my toe into the doll making world. So with a little further research I learned you can mix acrylic paints into air dry clay to color it. I did just that, mixing clay and paint segment by segment as I went so it wouldn’t dry out. It takes an alarming amount of paint to get any color at all. At what point does it stop being clay and start being a ball of paint?? A tail might seem like a difficult endeavor at first, but really it’s just a series of pinch pots. Everyone’s made pinch pots, right? In art class? The only difference is that you put a hole in the bottom, and be conscious of the size as you work your way smaller towards the tip of the tail. Mine are far from perfect, but even they ended up looking pretty cool. One thing to note on my design is that the base of the tail is a bead, with an elongated slot on one side to allow for movement of the elastic. We’re going to drill a large hole into the doll’s back to make a seat for the bead. It needs to be smaller than the diameter of the bead so it doesn’t sink all the way into her body, of course. I drill through the dolls torso under the new hole we just made and set a sturdy snippet of coat hanger wire inside with more Apoxie glue. That sucker’s not going anywhere, and it’s super strong. It should be able to handle the tension of the elastic with ease. After making 10 tiny pinch pots, I move on to the tail tip. This piece will hold the ends of the elastic, so it, too, needs to be sturdy. For that reason, this piece received an armature wire. Make a slot down the middle of the ball. Drill a hole through the sides, and this should allow you to fit a rod and pivoting hook shape in there. I sanded all the shapes until they were smooth and flush with each other, frequently doing mock-ups to see how they fit. Actually, I revised many of the pieces several times to make subtle corrections to their size and shape until everything sit right. This clay was easy to work with, easy to sand and carve with wood tools. In fact, I’m worried it was too easy to sand. It might be too soft. I can’t have these tail parts crumbling under pressure. But hey, this is ball jointed doll clay, so I need to have more faith, right? You probably noticed the gradient from green to light blue in the clay. That was totally accidental as I did a poor job of mixing the same green color each time. But let’s just roll with it. Sure I made the gradient on purpose! Inspired by the progress we’ve made so far with common materials, I decided to go ahead and use air dry clay for this entire project instead of my usual Apoxie Sculpt. So let’s make our first pass over the body. First I cover the joints and start building up bones and muscle shapes. Wet the wood with a damp finger to get the clay to stick. For the lower leg, I embed a nut into the exterior side like I have with previous dolls. I build up clay around her feet to flesh out the new toes, leaving ample room for the toes to move. Then I cover the exterior side with clay, sealing in the dowel. Looks good. With the structures all in place, we can move on to cosmetic sculpting. You know, the fun fancy details. I knew I’d have to paint the body of the doll at this point, so I gave up on mixing pigment into the clay. It was really slowing me down, anyway. I build up thickness of the toes and start adding scales, one squished sphere at a time! In order to stop the leg from overextending backwards, I sculpt two spikes onto the ankle. This clay does not claim to stick to plastic, but it’s doing fairly well regardless! This part was fun because I wanted to give her a classic scaly belly that feathers into scales on her back, as well as scales that resemble chest armor. I build up some large scales around the sides and sculpt on her belly scales. It was here I decided the hinges would sit flatter and be more secure if I built up a clay chunk, kind of like a plateau, on her upper back. And we’ll just keep adding more scales around it until it looks believable. Coming back to the tail real quick, remember that tail tip that needs to hold the hook piece? Well, it’s too weak. I was hoping to do this all with air dry clay, but we do need something stronger for this. We need Apoxie Sculpt. Just on this one tiny part though. It will be able to hold the hook mechanism and take the strain of the elastic. And to finish the tail, I gave it some neat alligator-esque spikes to liven it up! After the clay fully dried, some of the thinner scales and the scales stuck to plastic and nothing else started popping off. That’s okay. I suspected it might happen. Just take a strong glue and stick it back on! It’s even stronger than before with the glue. In fact, I went ahead and preemptively popped off some of the weaker scales, just to glue them back on, as well as coat entire weak-looking areas with glue. Let’s string the tail together! Feed one long string of elastic around the bar inside the doll. My elastic looks a little funny because I actually had to sew two short pieces together, but it works just the same. Then string each segment onto the elastic until you’ve reached the tip. Pull it tight and mark where the end is, then remove the pieces and tie a loop. Or in this case, sew a loop, because the elastic is too thick to tie. You need your elastic to stretch tight, so I suggest trying it back on after sewing the first loop, pulling it tight, and marking the elastic again to make your second loop. Once you’ve got two loops, use a thin piece of string to help feed the elastic through. Catch the tail tip, and there we have it! Let’s check back in on our pickled head. It’s been about two hours since we sealed it inside. It seems to have absorbed the acetone and swollen past the liquid. Oops! But it looks like it expanded evenly, so that’s what matters. Extract the head and gently squeeze out the remaining acetone. It’s really thin and squishy at this stage. And look how huge it is compared to the original head! Now, without rinsing it off or anything, just set the head aside and wait 24 hours for the acetone to fully evaporate. And here it is again. I’d say it’s shrunken to about the size of a walnut. Again, for a more thorough head shrinking walkthrough, please check Dirili’s tutorials. They’re fantastic. Why did I bother shrinking the head for this doll, you wonder? Well, the wings take up a lot of space, and I want to give her big dragon horns and ears, too. I predicted that all those attributes would fight for attention and get very crowded on a normal monster high sized noggin. By shrinking the head size, we give ourselves more room to move around, and a smaller head also makes the horns and other mods seem bigger by comparison. Feed several lengths of wire through the crown of the head to create an armature. And we’ll use more air dry clay to form the horns. I’m giving her six horns in total because I’m extra. I want the ears to have the ability to swivel around, so I stick their armature wires through a single point on the head. Like with everything else we’ve sculpted, I did several passes over the horns and ears, and added glue for strength around the bases. How do we fill in the wings though? They’re just bare bones at the moment. I was inspired by Hextian’s wing technique in his manananggal doll video, but I really wanted a colored film, so piggybacking off the vinyl bag idea, I managed to find this vinyl raincoat in blue. Expanding the wings to their fully extended positions, I cut out approximately sized squares for each. Then, one digit at a time, I glued the wings to the raincoat, rolling the film over the bones as I went to ensure everything stayed flat. You can see I tried this with normal glue first, but sadly, it did not adhere to the vinyl. So for attempt number two, I used hot glue. While doing this, keep in mind what side of the wing you’re gluing on. I’m gluing mine to the backs, which means the sides with the nuts on them. I don’t trust the hot glue on its own, so to make sure the stuff sticks, I’m using the nozzle of the glue gun to melt the vinyl directly on to the wooden sticks. It looks a little icky, but I know it’s strongly attached. Continue this for each digit, working quickly because it’s hot glue, but being careful not to singe holes in the vinyl. I accidentally burned a hole or two into my wings, but hopefully you can’t see them! Cut off the excess when you’re done. I went for a jaggedy, tattered wing shape. Repeat this for your other wing. I laid mine on top of each other to make sure the fingers line up. Cool! One last issue to solve with the wings, though. Because of the back-and-forth shifting motion of the joints, the bolts become loose very quickly. To stop them from unscrewing, I’ll be using Loctite. Dribble some Loctite over the threads of the bolt, then screw it in place. After 20 minutes, the bolts are not going anywhere. How about Venus’s hands? The vine-like plant designs don’t match our dragon, so with an Exacto knife, off they come. Okay, that is all the sculpting and body changes done! This is one of my favorite moments in the doll making process, because it just looks like such an art project, you know? We’re well into the doll, there’s art supplies and doll parts everywhere… It’s kind of charming in that messy art studio kind of way. Just me? On to paint, then. Let’s use Venus’s original green skin, but have fun with it. I’ve mentioned that I tend to struggle with colors. Some people could throw a gorgeous color palette together effortlessly, whereas I have to think really hard about it and experiment. So I’m turning back to Spyro for help! I found one dragon with yellow-green skin, and love how the artist chose bright magenta and purple as secondary colors, so I’m going to take inspiration from this. I found these awesome fluorescent acrylic paints that are so bright, they wrecked the color balance on my camera! Yes please! I’m thinking a gradient fade to hot pink at her extremities will look pretty! The air dry clay takes paint very well. It was opaque after two coats. Color-matching her skin was tough, but I think I got close enough. When I say the camera can’t handle these colors, I mean it! I’ve color corrected all the footage, but it’s still not an accurate representation. The pink almost burns my eyes in real life. It’s great! While I’m at it, I paint the hinges and other hardware her skin color. It probably won’t stick to the metal forever, but it’s better than nothing! The whole reason I used air dry clay and went through the trouble of mixing custom colors was to avoid painting the tail, but I really want the tail to fade to pink too! I’m gonna do it. So counterintuitive… I will try to make it a quick fade so that I don’t paint too many segments, and then just keep my fingers crossed. If you want to take your paint job to the next level, take the time to hand paint shadows and highlights around your sculpted scales. Mix up a darker color of the thing you’re painting. Here I’m using dark green and even blue in the deepest crevices to bring an illusion of layers and depth. You can add some fun scuffs and cracks while you’re at it! Once you’ve shaded the scales, mix up a lighter color and pop in some highlights right above your shadows. This creates a crisp edge, and I use this basic but effective technique all over the doll to make her look super scaly and detailed. Here’s some before and after shading. You can see what a difference it makes. As for the wings, the fronts were straightforward enough, but the backs were a little ugly. We had to melt the plastic to the wood remember? I’m hoping the paint will conceal the bumpiness. At least it’s on the back! Take DuraClear Matte Varnish cut with water, and cover everything to protect the paint from damage and peeling. I used two coats. The tricky part was finding a safe place for the pieces to dry. Once it’s fully dry, it tends to stay shiny, I don’t know why, so to make it matte once more, I spray the pieces with Mr. Super Clear sealant. If you’re wondering, no, the MSC on its own is not enough to seal in the paint job in my experience. Time for hair. Let’s use three beautiful nylon colors from The Doll Planet with the dominant color being hot pink. Truly outrageous indeed! Take your hair, take your tool, take your head, and stab! I said stab! Okay, Durili does mention that if you plan on rerooting a shrunken head, you should do so soon after the shrinking process. Well, some stuff came up in my personal life that kept me from working on my dolls for about three weeks, so yeah, I’d say that small window of opportunity long since passed me by. I guess the only option is to glue it on. I prepare the hair into wefts by painting glue onto one side, letting it dry, then removing and trimming the excess. Peeling off the dry glue is always fun! And now she can get her hair. I glue them on from bottom to top, using the darkest purple underneath, the lighter purple in the middle, and lots of pink on top. It’s a little difficult working around her horns. Now that we’re at the top, we need to think of a way to make the part that doesn’t show a lot of glue. I think I have a plan! I tried to glue on these last wefts with as little overlap as possible, so that they lay close to the scalp. Paint glue from the part all the way to the front, and place the last weft, which is pretty thick. The trick is to feather it out over the glue and push it in place just enough where the bottom layer of hair is securely adhered, but the glue doesn’t seep through to the top. We’ll finish her hairstyle, but it must wait until after the face. Bind the hair out of the way, then take some scrap fabric and pins to mask off the face. It isn’t going to be easy with all these horns and giant ears, but we’ll manage. I clean up the face once more with acetone and water before spraying her with sealant. As always, the materials I use are listed in the description box below. I’m constantly inspired by all of you amazing artists on Instagram, and recently I’ve been inspired by these people: You can find links to all these artists below. You’ll see inspiration from all of them in the dragon’s face up. Start off with pastels to blush the face. I add green to her cheeks eyes and nose. Then, using water colored pencils, I sketch in the eye lines and lids. I go back and forth with layers of pencils and pastels for a softer look. Let’s give her some spiky eyelashes fitting for a dragon. I want her to be looking straight forward and up this time. Brush on some pink lip color. Then I start gauging where her pupils will go. I tend to jump around a lot when I’m drawing my faces. I use purples and pinks in her eyes for a magical look. They say purple is the color that occurs least frequently in nature, which is why people find it rare, mysterious and magical. Once you’ve gotten your shapes down, and you’re pretty sure that the eyes are looking in the same direction- that’s the most crucial part- give your doll a layer of sealant and continue shading and highlighting. Use grays and whites to add a sense of roundness to the eyes. I wasn’t sure about eyebrows since she already has horns where her eyebrows should be, but nah, she looks odd without them, so I went ahead and drew them on. I admit, they make her forehead look a little crowded. Now for some freckles and scales. I can never sharpen the pencils enough to get into that lip crevice, so I’m wetting a brush, lifting the pigment off the pencil, and applying it that way, a technique I picked up from Mozekyto. The last and most stubborn pigment to build up is always white, so I wet the pencils here too. Apply micro glitter to the eyes for a mesmerizing shimmer effect. And last but not least, the shines. She totally needs fangs! Take a teeny triangular sliver of paper, a dab of glue, and delicately place it on the lips. Can’t… breathe… while… placing… There we go. I decided a single fang looked better. She’s fairly symmetrical as it is, and I like asymmetry in my designs. After spraying the final layers of MSC, we can unmask the doll and tackle the hair. It’s very springy in its natural state, so the first thing we want to do is flatten everything by pouring boiling water onto the hair. Will the glue survive? I sure hope so! I’m always amazed the face-up survives this part, too. Okay, so it does seem to have softened the glue I used for the hair and horns, so I’m gonna set her aside and not touch this again until it’s completely dry. The glue rehardened and she survived, thank goodness! Now we can reattach the head to the body. I cut the neck peg down to size because who needs that part anyway? But you can see the neck peg structure is still too large for our shrunken head. So I’m going to trim the little arms and also carve down the circumference of the base here. And I’m going to widen the doll’s neck hole in the base of her head. That’s still not enough, though. To make this as easy as possible, take a hair dryer and heat up the neck hole area to make the vinyl squishy. Shrunken heads are much harder than their original forms though, so it didn’t soften that much. Honestly, shoving the head back on was so scary! I didn’t want to squeeze and distort the face up, and I didn’t want to grip her head too tightly for fear that I’d break her horns! I tried to squeeze the temples and work it over the neck peg. Aww yeah, nailed it! *Laughing* Okay, that’s better. Since her head is smaller, the neck does look longer by comparison, but that’s fine with me since she’s got a long dragon neck! Now to finish styling the hair. I definitely want to weave the hair around the horns somehow. Yeah, like that. And now for bangs! You guys know I love my bangs! I went for a triangle shape at first, but decided I didn’t like it because it hides her eyebrows. Blunt cut it is, then, my favorite. And of course, I trimmed up the rest. To give her bangs a cute natural flip inward, heat up a chopstick, I used a straightener, and used a gloved hand to press the hair into the curve of the chopstick. I’m so sorry I didn’t record this the first time, it was my first time trying this method, so I was so focused on whether or not it would actually work I forgot to put the camera in front of me! So here I am miming it. You know what else she needs? A wicked set of claws! Glue clippings of cardstock paper to each fingertip. Once dry, come back with more glue and reinforce them from the underside. This is a really easy way to extend dolls’ fingers, or give them sweet stiletto manicures! Let’s reassemble her tail now, shall we? This looks so cool. I know to you pro BJD sculptors out there this probably looks like child’s play, but I’m so happy with the tail. It’s actually functioning the way I’d hoped! We can attach her wings too. They’re a little big and clunky-looking right behind her shoulders, but I think the hair will cover that up. Our doll is complete! With all the scales and modifications, she looks pretty cool as is, but let’s give her some accessories anyway. What are we at, 30 minutes or so already? Hope you guys like longer episodes. Our dragon girl needs some classic accessories. I’m thinking potions and spell books. I was hoping to avoid resin for once, but if I want to make cute potion bottles, there’s no other way. I start by sculpting two potion bottles, a big one and a small one, out of clay and wood Next I use Pebeo Siligum molding paste to encase the bottles. Cut the bottle out once it’s cured, and there’s our mold! I learned my lesson with Xerneas, so I know that solid molds are only compatible with two-part resin. So I mixed my resin and color it with Pearl X powders, then I pour it into the molds, or I try to pour it into the mold. The neck of the mold is too small. It’s not going in! I’m wasting so much resin just trying to force a drop of it down there. I don’t have high hopes for these. You know what? Let’s make some UV resin ones, too. This is going to take more work than method one. It’s kind of complicated, but long story short, I only have the silicone putty to make the molds, and UV resin needs light to cure, so I’ll have to patch two sides of a bottle together to make one bottle. Got all that? Great. I took new molds of half bottles, then I cut the mold and insert a thin film. This will let me add colored resin on one side and clear resin to the other side. With UV resin this time, I cure layer by layer until it’s full. I repeat this to make the other halves of the bottles, then join all the parts together. First I join the clear necks to the filled bottoms, then I sand down both halves until they’re flat and I can join them with one more session under the lamp. I don’t know what I’m doing wrong, but the mold always leaves me with a foggy resin, so to make them glossy again, I’m going to cover them with several coats of Liquitex high gloss varnish. They’re a little lumpy in places, but I tried my best. I still think they came out pretty cute, despite my amateur methods. I created a spell book out of paper, cardboard, and more air dry clay, and a resin gem. There’s a strap that attaches to the back so she can strap it to her belt, and I filled in the pages. Bookbinding is another hobby of mine, so making doll sized books is always fun. I also made her a loincloth and a scarf out of maroon knit, and I even made her a fishing pole out of a chopstick, but now I’m not sure it matches her anymore. It is fun, though! Everything’s been made! We can assemble the doll and call her done. She needs a name, and I’m thinking with all these bright colors, she should be called Aurora! You may notice slight changes to her outfit in these final photographs. I made some last-minute tweaks right before the shoot, and I think they’re big improvements. I just wish I’d made them earlier! The main reason I hadn’t tried head-shrinking until now is because I often group my dolls together for photos. I was worried the head size might look too strange, and set the dolls apart, and it does but I don’t know. I mean, she looks fine on her own. It’s only noticeable when she’s standing next to a normal doll. You know, I really do love dragons, and there’s a lot more potential out there for other dragon dolls. I’m tempted to make this into a dragon series, but would you guys be interested in that? We could explore Eastern dragons, wyverns, feather dragons, all sorts of dragons! Let me know what you think, because I might be up for that. Thank you so much for joining me. This doll was very experimental, but hey, what’s the stock box for? Don’t forget to vote on the theme for our next stock box experiment by clicking that icon in the corner of this video! Feel free to leave a comment for another topic, too, because you guys helped steer my decisions for what to make next. Subscribe to receive notifications on when I post a new video and leave a like for Aurora and her tiny head! See you in the next video. Stay artsy! Annyeong!