Review: Artisan Toro 3200

Review: Artisan Toro 3200



welcome to my shop in my last video I mentioned doing a review of the artisan selling machine specifically this is going to be a review of the artisan toro 3200 pedestal style machine this is a replacement of my toro 3000 made by artisan as well the difference between the three thousand and the 3200 is that the 3200 has a 12 inch throat whereas the 3000 has a nine inch throat the modifications that artisan has made with this machine are significant I'll get into some of those and and then we'll do some stitching the main modification that you'll notice in terms of your illumination is artisan has this mag melted light it's an LED light and it has two modes of brightness it has a bright and a dim bright and dim and it may not show up on the video but the dim is about 50% less than the braid also the LED light has an articulating arm that can allow you to kind of illuminate your workspace from multiple different angles so the other modification that I've noticed right off the bat with artisan is they've moved the bobbin winder that what used to be mounted on the top of the table to the rear of the machine and it's now mounted directly on to the machine as you can see I'm winding a bobbin right now and what I like to do is have a bobbin on the bobbin winder while I'm working so if I run out of thread I can immediately grab a new bottom and put it in the bobbin shuttle so another very good modification that artisan has come up with and implemented into their design you'll also notice that there used to be two chains that connect the presser foot and the pedal that connects to the power and artisan has replaced the pedal that connects to the power with an all-electronic system so there's no more chain that actuates the the motor it's now electronic and so that leaves just one chain that connects directly to the presser foot you'll also notice that there are these heavy-duty casters on the bottom of the pestle in these lock and place I can move the Machine around and the casters are very smooth and then once you have it where you want it to be you just press down on the lock and lock it in place the drawer that comes with the new machine is a lot deeper and and has smoother action than the previous machine it's about three and a half inches deep by four inches wide by 15 inches long it holds all your tools and components needles and bobbins the most significant modification that artisan has come up with though although those other mods are good the most significant one is they've moved all of the electronic and motor components from underneath the table to the top of the table so the speed control is now on top of the table and the motor is also on top of the table and that allows you to do any replacement of parts without having to crouch underneath the motor you'll also notice is significantly smaller than previous motors it's about 7 inches from the end of the drive shaft to the rear of the motor and although it's significantly smaller it has much more power than previous motors as well so all in all the modifications that artisan is made with this machine are significant but the most significant is the location of the speed control and the location and power of the motor so they've reduced the size of the motor and added more power to it so this thing will power through over an inch of leather or other material that the machine is built as to stitch so what we're going to do now is I'm going to show you how to thread the machine and then I'll stitch a holster so you can get a sense of the action of the machine and so that's what we're gonna do right now to start threading your top thread you're going to place the thread through the eye in the thread stand from back to front from the thread stand you're going to feed the thread through the eye cinch it in between the tensioners and then feed it again through the eye and pull down from the top tensioner you're going to feed the thread through the eye at the bottom tensioner and you're going to wrap the thread around once and then come back up a second time back through the same eye and then through the high that's just to the left of the bottom tensioner from the bottom tensioner you're going to bring the thread back up to the thread arm and feed it in from back to front and pull through from the thread arm you're going to feed the thread through the thread guide and there's a I just below that thread guide you're gonna feed the needle through are the thread through and then there's an eye on the shank that the needle goes into and you're going to feed the thread through that and then you have the eye of the needle itself and you're going to feed the thread through front to back and then the last step you're gonna feed the thread through the center presser foot top-down and that's how you thread the top thread on your machine winding the bobbin is easy you're going to fit this hole onto this peg and you're going to put the thread through this hole on the outside you could put it on the on this hole but it could tangle inside over here so I keep the thread on the outside and it fitted onto that peg as you can see it's locked in I take up the slack press that down it's not going to do anything unless you press this down and hold onto the slack and then you hit the pedal for the motor and start winding and you've gotten it a little bit wound up you can then cut off the slack and finish winding the bobbin you might have to help it along as it winds you want to get a nice even wined on the bottom as you can see as thread loads up on the bobbin this starts to move up what you can do when you're sewing is you can actually have this already loaded up so as you're stitching your work you'll always have a bobbin being wound some people will let this thing whine without helping it along I like to kind of make sure I use my fingers to sort of help slide it along and bobbin the bobbin is wound you don't want to wind it all the way to the outside edges you want to give it a little bit of space if you wind it all the way to the outside edge it can get hung up inside your bobbin shuttle it has this neat little sort of hook here I can keep your excess thread sure when you're gonna wind another bobbin to load the bobbin you take off the bobbin shuttle cover and there's a button right here little metal lever you push up and the bobbin shuttle opens up to place the bobbin in you have the thread coming off from the bottom slide it in and you pull and you'll see the thread feed through these two fingers here pull out about 8 inches and to get that bobbin thread up you take your top thread you drive the needle down and you'll see that top thread come and grab the bobbin thread and it pulls it up replace the bobbin shuttle cover and you're ready to stitch before you stitch what you're going to want to do is you're going to want to take a towel and just wipe your presser feet because it's going to be oil that's going to come down and you'll get it on your work so just wipe it a little bit and now we're ready to start sewing to set the speed control you turn the unit on press the and hold the down button until you get to s point zero hit the UP button three times until you get to a so point three and then you can hit the down button or the UP button each time you hit the button and adjust in increments of 100 rpms for example that's 800 rpms 900 1000 1100 rpms and so on I keep my machine at 900 rpms because I stitched quite slow and that's it alright to start you're going to advance the needle to the space where you want to stitch grab the pigtails and again because I'm stitching an entire circuit I'm not going to back tuck it because I'm going to come back around to the same space and I'll backtalk at that point when you do your turns always turn with the needle down never turn on the needles up otherwise you'll end up with a very long stitch on the straightaways you can really let the Machine take off but I'm traditionally slow stitcher I don't stitch past not shooting for speed I'm shooting for accuracy when I stitch and I'll take a picture of this holster when it's completed probably noticing may have some pen marks on it stuff like that none of that stuff shows up when I'm done I am able to remove all of those imperfections and make a very clean holster so it may not look like much right now but once it's molded and everything else you'll get a sense of the detail you'll notice every time the needle goes down I just rotate the material just a hair and that's because I'm doing my turns while the needle is in the leather as you come back around you want to make sure you grab the pigtails again so that way you don't stitch over them want those out of the way and this is where I'm gonna be back tacking right here you might run out of space like I did so you'll have a short stitch that's not a big deal and you just want to throw it in reverse pull the material out and there's your stitched holster this is your top thread and your bottom thread and that's what you're looking for but not is in between the leather it's in between these two seams so now this holster is ready to be edged burnished and molded and at the end of the video I'll take a picture of this holster when it's completed so you can see exactly how it looks molded burnished in detail you

9 thoughts on “Review: Artisan Toro 3200

  1. I have noticed that none of the Artisan machines have speed reducer/torque multiplier wheels. The way Artisan has their machines set up, it would be almost impossible to mount one. Your machine seemed to hesitate a little at slow speed which is common since the flywheel is not providing torque at extremely slow speeds. I like the low speed full punching power when using a speed reducer pulley set-up. Do you ever find it a problem with the Artisan?

  2. Excellent review.  Helps me with the decision of what to buy.
    I also just watched your video on how you finish your edges and will adopt it.  I am now subscribed to your channel.  On that video the comments are disabled so I was unable to ask you where you got the red handled stitch groover.  I hope you see this and can guide me to a source for it.  Thanks, and Merry Christmas.

  3. @Rob Prince, thanks! I am currently working on a shoulder rig for revolvers and semi autos.  I think it will be a good design.  Looking forward to doing a video of me putting one together.

  4. @honestreview, I didn't know the Cowboy was that cheap in cost. The Toro line is around the $2k margin.  I prefer the Artisan models due to my respect for the company, it's great customer service and the fact that my first machine (Toro 3000) was so reliable.  Cowboy and Artisan are both needle feed machines.  It has been my experience with all of my leather tools and machines that the more you pay, the better the quality!

  5. Sir, how does this compare to the cowboy 3200? I know the cowboy machine is approx $500.00 less… ? Thanks!

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