Painting Haggis Tier Purple Tartan

Painting Haggis Tier Purple Tartan


What’s up guys, welcome back! Hold on to your sporrans because we’re about
to paint some Haggis tier purple tartan. Tartan designs can be insanely complicated,
but the key to painting them is to break the pattern down into a series of simple steps,
that way you don’t get overwhelmed with the details. We’ll start this off with a dark red, I’m
using Scale Colour Deep Red, I quite like using the scale paints because the matt finish
gives quite a good fabric effect but you can use any red you want. The first step is to create a series of little
boxes and that’s going to make up the framework for our tartan, to do that I paint a row of
vertical lines, and I try to keep them evenly spaced. These don’t have to be perfect because you
can clean up as you progress through the design,having said that, the neater you are at this stage
the less time you’ll spend later on, so it is worth trying to be careful early on, so
you don’t waste time later. Once that’s finished I then I paint another
row of lines, this time making them perpendicular to our previous set. It’s much easier to do this if you spin the
model round so that you’re brush is always moving in the same direction. Obviously, you can’t always do that, so it
really depends on the shape of the model that you’re working on. You might have to make
some concessions here and there, but if the situation presents itself you should definitely
take advantage it. I realised at this point that the grid wasn’t
following the flow of the fabric on the right side here, so I just repositioned the lines
slightly. That’s one of the benefits to starting off
with a grid, because you can easily see where it’s going wrong and fix it while it’s still
easy to do so. There are faster methods which don’t start
with a grid, but if something goes wrong it can be a nightmare to fix so it’s usually
better to use this grid method, just to save yourself from some future headaches. Once you’ve finished the grid you can begin
filling in the boxes with your various colours. So I’ll use that same deep red paint and block
in the pattern. We’ll do this similar to a checkerboard, except
that every other line we’ll leave blank. If your grid was a little wonky you can use
this stage to clean it up slightly as you paint in the squares, either straightening
the edges or making the boxes slightly bigger or smaller, whatever your situation dictates. Then once that’s finished I mix a little Scale
Colour Black Leather into some Scale Colour Graphite to get this desaturated light purple. You can of course just use any light purple
colour the specific colour you use isn’t really that important, it’s totally down to personal
preference so use whatever colour you prefer. And now, we’ll go ahead and fill in every
black square with the purple. Now… I know what you’re probably thinking. You’re thinking ‘wouldn’t it make more sense
to just start off by painting the whole thing purple then painting the red grid on top?’ And to that I say… Yes… Yes it would. ‘Here, that’s not what I was thinking!’ Yeah Angus, we don’t want to know what you
were thinking to be honest ‘Get it up ye ya wee radge! It should be me
doing this tutorial anyway, I’m more Scottish than you are!’ I mean yeah, but nobody can understand what
you’re saying Angus so I don’t think it would work as a tutorial. They have to, you know,
be able to follow along. ‘Aye, don’t give me that. They can’t understand
what you’re saying either. It’s no wonder you need subtitles on ever video ya glaikit
looking walloper’ *sigh* … Just, go away. Anyway, once you’ve filled in the purple grab
a brighter red, I’m using some Scale Colour Antares red, but any bright red will do. Now, rather than blocking the colour in, instead
you’re going to paint little diagonal lines over the purple like this, filling in the
boxes so that they complete the checkerboard pattern. Now when you’re doing this, there’s no guidelines
to show where the edge of each box is so you have to imagine where the edges of the box
would be. I do this by visualizing a line connecting
the corners of the four red boxes surrounding the square. And I paint the lines on so that they fall
inside that box. These lines are to simulate stitching on the
fabric so It’s important that they all go in the same direction. If you change the direction on each box you
kind of lose the effect somewhat and it’ll give you a more chaotic result. Use a light touch with the brush when you’re
doing this so that you’re only painting with the very tip of the bristles. If you push down on the bristles you’ll end
up with quite a thick line which isn’t what you’re going for. If you find this too difficult you can just
forego doing the lining work and just block the red in normally as a solid colour. But give the lines a try at least, if you
don’t like the result you can always paint over it. So you might as well give it a go. Next we’ll add some black into our purple
mix to darken it down. And we’ll use that to line between the boxes. I find I get the best results when I do the
line in a single stroke. But it’s not always possible when there’s
a lot of undulations on the surface, it makes doing it in one stroke really quite difficult.
But just try and do the best that you can. Alright so, I do this over the whole surface,
painting on the vertical lines between the boxes, You need to be quite neat at this stage
as it’s tricky to tidy up the lining work if you make a mistake. So just take your time here, make sure your
hands are braced together to reduce any shaking and try to paint with the tip of the brush. A good brush with a decent point will make
it a lot easier. Check out the link in the description if you’re
interested in the brush I use. The main thing is that you try not to press
down while you’re painting the lines so that the width of each one stays consistent. Once you’ve done the vertical lines, turn
piece around and repeat the process, this time painting all the horizontal lines. It’s much easier to do this if you rotate
the model so that you’re always moving the brush in the same direction. That way you build up muscle memory and you
get much better at painting the lines because you’re always doing essentially the same movement. Next we’ll mix some Valejo Ivory into that
original light purple colour. And we’ll use that brighter purple to paint
lines down the middle of the columns with the darker red boxes. This is much harder than the previous step
because there’s no obvious guide to follow, you just have to eyeball where the middle
of the boxes are. You can see that I’m not quite so sure about
myself here as the lines are going on a little bit wobbly. But that’s ok, it doesn’t have to be perfect,
you’re working on quite a small scale so little mistakes aren’t that obvious when you’re looking
at the finished model. Once you’ve finished those lines, turn the
piece around and again, paint lines along the middle of the rows that have the dark
red boxes. This is usually where you start to get a little
anxiety about what you’re doing. Try to take calming breathes, there’s a tendency
for you to unconsciously hold your breath while you’re doing this, try to be conscious
of that, because it will only make it harder for you. If you find your hands start to shake, just
stop. have a stretch, and then try again. To continue I’ll add some more Ivory into
that previous light purple mix. And I’ll use that to place a little dot in the middle of
where the pale lines intersect. To finish the pattern off we’ll use the dark
lining colour we used earlier and this time we’ll paint lines down the middle of the stitched
red boxes. You can see I made a complete pigs ear of
that one. But like I said, it doesn’t need to be perfect. As a finishing touch we’ll add some shading.
To do that we’ll add some water to that dark lining colour, thinning it down to a glaze
consistency. Then with a small amount on the brush we’ll
glaze that into the recessed areas of the coat. This part will test your confidence a fair
bit, you’re going to feel like you’ll ruin all that lining work. But if you build this up slowly over a few
layers it’ll be fine. You do start to lose a bit of detail using
this method of shading, but it actually works out quite well because the design would actually
get slightly obscured when in shadow so a slight lose of detail only adds to the realism. Just don’t apply so many layers of the glaze
that you totally lose the design. You can see that after a few coats, you start
to build up a really nice effect. It should look something like this when you
finish. I think it’s one of the better tartan better
patterns I’ve done, I really like the colours and the level of complexity. Alright guys, so that is how you paint a pretty
convincing tartan design on your minis, I hope you try it out. You can swap out the colours and use whatever
you like, you don’t have to use purple and red. If you give it a go send me a picture and
I might feature it on a future video. Alright, that’s all from me Thanks again Bye for now…

8 thoughts on “Painting Haggis Tier Purple Tartan

  1. So excited to see Haggis, again. Great video. I started watching you ages ago b/c of your original tartan video. Excellent update. Thanks!

  2. Angus self help channel, when?
    Great vid mate. You did a guide for something similar some years back and I have unashamedly used that formula a lot. This is great

  3. Looks incredible. Love the videos. And thanks for the suggestions to de-stress while painting. Definitely need to do them lol.

  4. You are a darling I went to the Stoke model show and I got myself a Scottish figure I wanted to paint my tartan on him but I didn't have the balls but thanks to you i do cheers Pal take care my friend πŸ‘πŸ‘πŸ‘πŸ‘πŸ‘πŸ‘πŸ‘πŸ‘πŸ‘πŸ‘πŸ‘πŸ‘πŸ‘πŸ‘πŸ‘πŸ‘πŸ‘πŸ‘πŸ‘πŸ‘πŸ‘πŸ‘πŸ‘πŸ‘πŸ‘πŸ‘βœŒπŸ˜

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