Malifaux Demon Skin Painting Tutorial

Malifaux Demon Skin Painting Tutorial

What’s up guys, welcome back, This is part one of a 3 part series on how
to paint the Daydream from the Malifaux Hide and Seek crew, In this video we’ll be looking at how to approach
the skin. We’ll start off with some Braineater Azure
from the Fantasy and Games range, if you don’t have that you can get something similar by
mixing a small amount of GW Daemonette Hide into some Fenrisian Grey. Just go ahead and splat that onto the skin,
this paint actually covers quite well so you can probably get away with just one coat. I’m using a Raphael number 1 here, which kinda
shows you just how small the model is when it makes a number 1 look massive. Once that dries we’ll wash with GW Drakenhof
Nightshade. We want to end up with quite a strong shadow
colour so be quite liberal with the wash. Now we’ll add a bit of water to our base colour
and start to build up definition on the skin. You want the paint to be essentially a heavy
glaze consistency, so it’s thin enough that you can play about with the transparency but
not so thin that you don’t have any control over it. We’ll just pick out all the little raised
areas leaving the recesses nice and dark. The process here is going to be pretty similar
to the demon on the dreamer but we’ll be using different colours and I’ll add a few effects
here and there to give him more of a sinister vibe. So once you’ve picked out all the little details
we’ll begin to build up our highlights. Mix a little Vallejo Red Beige into your base
colour, and we’ll start to apply it to the model. Again I’m using a heavy glaze consistency
so that I can drag the paint over the surface creating a subtle transition between the colours. Using Red Beige is really going to help us
get a strong colour contrast on the skin. It’ll end up being a lot more interesting
than just using white. So we’ll have a complimentary contrast between that pale violety blue and
the orangey beige. And because we’re using cold colours in the
shadows and warm colours in the highlights, it’ll give us two levels of contrast. Which is a really good way of pushing the
contrast that little bit further, that’s quite important, especially on models as small as
this one. Alright, so just add some more red beige to
the mix and we’ll continue with another round of highlights. Again, I’m using a heavy glaze consistency
to give me more control. So I’m trying to lighten the areas around
the centre of the face. And then on the lower half here I’m pulling
the pigment up over his belly letting it gather near the middle point just under the centre
of his chest. Being careful not to lose any of the detail
in the shadows. I’m also trying to work on a small surface
area than the last step so we build up a transition between the colours. Stick some more Red Beige in there and we’ll
keep building the highlights. So we’ll start on the belly here, you can
see I’m trying to be super careful not to lose anything from the last step, we’re working
on a really small surface now. Just around that centre point on his stomach. And I’ll add a couple little dots here and
there just to help give it some texture. These models are really nicely sculpted but
they are a bit flat, as far as texture goes so it’s good to add some of your own just
to help give it a bit more life. And we’ll do his boobs as well, I’m trying
to build up the colour around the middle of each one, just around the highest point of
the surface. Few more wee dots down here for good measure. Alright so we’ll go back to work on the face,
building up the colour around the centre area. Don’t forget to do the arms. If you’re wondering, I’m using a WAMP freehand
brush for this. It’s essentially a size 0, it’s got a really
good point but you can see even with the 0 the brush looks quite big next to the model. And we’ll do his wee knock knees as well,
I guess he didn’t get enough vitamin D when he was growing up, pretty bad case of rickets
going on there. Either that or he’s dying for a pee. Alright guys, so just keep building up that
contrast in the highlights. So here we’ll just pick out his belly button
by painting a very small line on the lower edge , it is actually part of the sculpt but
you can barely see it. It looks pretty cool like that but I think
we can bump up the contrast a little more, with some more red beige in there. Yep that looks better. For the last few highlights we’ll add some
Vallejo Ivory into our highlight mix just to help push that contrast up another level. Our highlights are so small now that we’re
going to apply them with little dots. You get to see me stuff up the eyebrows here,
I was a little too far away from the model to see what I was doing, I just totally paint
over all the previous steps with my clumsy highlights. I’ve left this part in as a an example of
what not to do. I fixed it off cam. So we’ll do back of his head now, and I’m
going to use stippling to build up some rounded highlights. The first step is to apply lots of little
dots with our first highlight colour, so our base colour mixed with a big of red beige. And I’m just bouncing the tip of the brush
over the surface, I’m still using a heavy glaze for this so that I can alter the level
of transparency. So if I want an area to be more opaque I’ll
just apply more dots on that part. We’ll keep doing this adding more and more
red beige to the colour, and each new colour we’ll focus on a smaller surface area, building
up a colour transition at the top of the head. The skin will look a little boring at this
stage, but we’ll apply some colour glazes soon which will change it quite radically. Alright so the next step is to take some Fantasy
and Games Hastur Purple, mix in a little bit of black giving us a really rich dark plum
colour and we’ll thin this down to a thin glaze consistency. You could get a similar colour by mixing a
little GW Rhinox hide into some wazdakka red. Now with a very small amount on the brush
we’ll glaze up over the underside of the face, up to the edge of the cheek bone here. We’ll build this up over a few layers. And
we’ll do the same of the other side. Again, this is going to help increase contrast
and it’ll also give us some more colour variation. And we’ll do the same thing here on the body,
pushing the glaze into the shadows at the side of the chest and belly. We’ll also run some into the shadows around
the muscles, basically anywhere we have a shadow we’ll try to intensify it with our
glaze. Add a bit more black to the glaze and we’ll
use that to block in the eye sockets. Alright so now we’re going to add som more
obvious colour variation by over glazing some areas with Hastur Purple. We wont add any black this time, just add
some water to the hastur purple by itself so it’s a thin glaze consistency. And we’ll glaze this over the nose bringing
a bit of colour into the face here, alright that’s looking pretty good there. Now we’ll do the same on the tail, glazing
up over the surface towards the tip. Just build this up over a couple of layers
letting it dry each time. And we’ll do the same on the ears, just pulling
the glaze down to the tips. That looks alright, we’ll finish off with
another little glaze just over his cheeks this time giving them a bit of colour. Alright so moving on we’ll finish off the
ears by painting on a sort of ribbed effect. Just mix some ivory into your base colour
and we’ll paint on little vertical lines across the width of the lower half of each ear. Ignore what I do on this ear, I had planned
on doing something else then changed my mind, just use the paint that’s already on there
as your shadow colour and paint on highlight lines leaving a little gap between each one. Then you’re simply going to build up the highlight
by adding a little more ivory each time, drawing the highlights to the lower edge of each ear. Alright guys so I hope you give it a go, if
you do, send me some pics, I’d be interested in seeing the results.
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22 thoughts on “Malifaux Demon Skin Painting Tutorial

  1. Nice tutorial, I especially like the textures and the subtle colour variations you add to the skin . May you have a happy new year. πŸ™‚

  2. Hastur purple must be the most madness inducing colour in their range. Unless, there's also Cthulhu pink that takes precedence πŸ™‚

  3. Your video's – especially your glazing & shading techniques – have really improved my painting & now i really enjoy painting for hours & hours. Thanks!

  4. I am very excited to try these techniques on my Heresy Miniatures that are arriving soon! Great Stuff! Thank you!!

  5. Excellent job!! I guess this same method that you're using here can be used for other types of skin, even normal human skin, by just changing the colors.

  6. Will this work on something larger, say like an Orc Boy? Or would you need to use other techniques like wet blending or feathering on the larger areas of the skin? Great technique?

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