How to Reinforce and Burglar Proof Your Entry Door

How to Reinforce and Burglar Proof Your Entry Door

Hi, friends. It’s Jeff with Home Repair
Tutor. And today I’m going to share with you how to reinforce an entry door and make
it burglar proof. So why do you want to do this? Well, hey,
anybody can kick open this door and literally come in your house and take your laptop, your
iPod, your iPads in less than 5 minutes. And there’s no way the police are going to get
here that quick. So anyhow, that’s why you want to reinforce
your entry door and feel a lot safer about your home. So let’s get started.
So here’s the deal. I go the Easy Armor door reinforcement kit. And it was a little
bit pricey, it’s like $60 or $70 at Lowe’s. But it comes at three different kinds of shields
along with all the screws that you need to make your door impenetrable and really tough
for even the Incredible Hulk to kick in. So let me show you those parts before we get
started. Here are the three different kinds of shields.
You’ve got the door shield—you’ve got two: one for the dead bolt, one for the lock.
Then you have two hinge shields that go overtop your hinges. You don’t have to remove the
hinges at all. And then, the final and most important thing is this huge piece right here
that is the jam shield. And it’s got all sorts of knockouts in it so you can line it
up with your jam and the straight plates on your jam. So I’ll show you how to install
all this stuff. And they give you—the cool part is—they should give you these screws
for $60 or $70. But they give you all the screws that you need to screw these into place.
So I’ll show you how to do that right now. So before you do anything, you want to take
the hinge shield. You want to stick it in between the door and the jam. And make sure
that it fits because this hinge shield is the same width as the jam shield. You just
want to make sure that it fits along that space. And obviously it does here because
I have more than 1/8” of space between the door and the jam. And this shield is probably
about 1/16” wide. But do this for your door. If this doesn’t
fit, if this is too tight, then maybe this product isn’t the right one for you and
you can take it back. This is the middle hinge, okay? And this is
the hinge you want to work on. You want to remove these two screws that are closest to
the insulation strip here. So remove this one.
First of all guys, look how small this screw is. Oh my gosh! It’s like ½”-¾” in
length. It’s pathetic. Now somebody obviously knew that they wanted
to reinforce this hinge because this one’s about 2-2½” long. But nonetheless, you
want to remove these two screws. The next step is to take a 3½” long screw
that they provide, okay? And screw that through the hinge into the jam and into the supporting
lumber behind this jam. Now they say to pre-drill, but since I’m
using an impact driver, I don’t need to do that, okay?
The next thing that you do is line up the hinge shield so that the hole that is left
behind that’s in the hinge is revealed. You take another 3½” screw, all right,
and you drill that into place such that it’s flush as much as possible.
The next step is to install two more 3½” screws in the hinge shield—one at the top,
and one at the bottom. Now again, you can pre-drill—I’m not going to—but you can
pre-drill if all you have is a regular drill, not an impact driver. Make sure that screw
is flush both on the top and on the bottom. Next thing that you want to do is shut the
door and make sure that this doesn’t prevent the door from closing properly. Now one thing
I will note on this door, because it’s a little bit cheaper, is they did not groove
out a mortise such that the hinge can sit inside that mortise and flush with the door
frame itself. So that could be an issue for you. It could be an issue for me here. But
let’s see if it’ll shut. So it shut. No problem. I’m good to go.
And I don’t have to groove out a mortise on the jam either. You just put this hinge
shield overtop your existing hinge. The next step is to do the same thing for
the bottom hinge. Again, check to see if the door will close. Boom, it does! All right,
all right! So now I’m going to install the jam shield.
And what you need to do is note the position of your strike plates. Here’s the dead bolt
strike plate. Here’s the door lock strike plate, okay? So there are many different knockouts
on the jam shield. And so what you want to do is make sure that you locate a knockout
that corresponds with each strike plate. So look, I’ve got this one and this knockout
that I can easily remove with my thumb, okay? All right.
All right. So now that I know I have everything lined up, you want to shove in the jam shield
as far as possible so it actually fits behind this insulation strip, okay? And then what
you do is mark holes with a pencil like so. So I get a hole here and here and up here.
And you can pre-drill or use an impact driver to get screws into those marked holes.
Instead of pre-drilling, I’m just going to put this screw in here maybe about ½”
and backed it out, okay? Then what I’m going to do is slide the jam shield back into place
and stick a screw in here. And again, this is a 3½” screw, all right?
Okay, there are two more spots on the bottom here that need to be secured with screws.
And there are two more holes at the top of the jam plate. Again, secure them with two
3½” screws. And then once you’re done, just check to
make sure that the door closes with limited interference. Not bad. Not bad.
When you line up the strike plate on the existing dead bolt or door handle, make sure that this
slot lines up with the slot on the Easy Armor plate, okay? Otherwise, the door may not close
properly. You can install these door shields over the
dead bolt and the regular door lock here, okay? Now before you do that, I highly recommend
that you test to see whether or not this can clear the door jam.
Now what I did first was I put the jam shield on. With the jam shield in place, what you
want to do is slide this door shield over the dead bolt and see if it’s going to clear.
And it doesn’t in this case. So there’s not enough room, and I’m not going to be
using these, all right? However, as a last resort, we can do is take
out the tiny screws that hold this in place—both these locks that’s in place—and use the
2½” screws that come with the Easy Armor kit that were meant for the door shield, okay?
So simply just take out these screws, okay? Take out both of these tiny screws and install
the 2½” screws. Do the same thing down here.
All right. That’s it. That’s how you install the Easy Armor door reinforcement kit. I hope
that this video helped you out. Let me know if you have any questions in the
comments section. I’d be more than happy to help you with your own project.
Visit Sign up for my email newsletter because you’re going to
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100 thoughts on “How to Reinforce and Burglar Proof Your Entry Door

  1. Being a landlord for 30yrs I have first hand experience with the processes and benefits of "fortifying" entry doors. In general I was with you until you removed the screws in the door hardware and simply replaced with longer ones (w/o predrilling I'll note too) which really does nothing. Everything you did to that point does help a lot. But you can accomplish the same thing much cheaper simply by going down to the hardware store. Also, it helps to replace the screws going thru the hinge into the door as that interface is a weak point. Installing a shield to the outside of the frame covering the area where the bolts interface the striker plates is another inexpensive fortification.

    For the people who mentioned the window…I've been intalling lexan instead of glass on first floor windows.
    But in the end the only way to defend againt a break-in is a dog, a gun, and training.

  2. 10:1 the door is a hollow door that a good kick in the middle will put your foot through it. Easier of course it the nice big glass window with no security on it about 3 feet to the left of the door.
    Either that or just drill the locks. I personally would be upgrading the whole door to a steel plated fire door.

  3. Anyone worth their salt knows to keep wood from splitting, blunt the tip of nail or screw and it prevents it..guaranteed

  4. Garbage!! $60 or $70 rip off!! You can buy a security camera for that price. One size fits all?? Unnecessary lengths! You need to change the lock-set first. That one can be opened with a bump-key.

  5. He put all those long screws securing it to the frame however he left the small hinge screw still in the door .

  6. Great vid, and so helpful. In terms of using the 2.5 inch screws that would have been used for the door shields, do you need to check first that these screws will not hit either your deadbolt or the door knob once they are screwed the way in?

  7. Nothing will keep someone out of your house short of a suitable dog.
    "Not just a pretty name.
    My cordless Sawzall will cut through that door or even right through a wall in no time at all.

  8. Gnome prepare scooter
    that toy ! your installing.
    you must own stock in that trash ! OR…
    Your getting paid…
    A lot of pennies
    To look like an idiot !

  9. Ha, ha, ha!!! ๐Ÿ™‚ In Ukraine normal metals door min 2mm steel + gerda tytan lock + mottura j- series dual lock+ abloy protec cylinder. Normal door – 700~1000$.

  10. 0:35
    If you consider $70 to reinforce your door as pricey, you may as well keep your weak ass door the way it is.
    On the other hand $70 are too much for that kit. A couple of screws probably made out of some soft alloy and a few thin pieces of metal for $70?
    I'd rather buy my own screws and make sure they're strong. I also would definitely use screws that are bigger in diameter and have a larger screw head. If possible and useful, I'd also take even longer screws.
    I'd also get custom made hinge shields that have more places where you can put in screws. Same with the jam shield. But additionally, I would get a completely new strike box and strike plate.
    Instead of trying to reinforce that shitty ass lock, I'd get a proper lock.

    Ok, not bad. But all you did was to shift the weak spot from the hinge-frame connection to the hinge-door connection. I bet the hinge is still screwed to the door with those pathetic, small screws.

    Oh, and of course you should always pre drill wood screws!!!

  11. Of course, the screws attaching the hinges to the door are still the same–a weak spot that remains.

  12. For all the "brick through window" comments. Most break -in's are targets of opportunity. My goal is to make my house difficult and not worth the time. Camera's (Arlo/Ring/Nest) in obvious and not so obvious places, obvious door reenforcement like this guy did, pick resistant locks (no kwikset/promax), security signs, lights, and in our case dogs. If someone really want's what you have they can probably get it but random thieves looking for an opportunity will probably bypass our place. And yeah, you should pre-drill.

  13. Please people read a few comments first before you start trying to teach the world with your little bit of knowledge. The first 8 comments were about pre drilling. Come on.

  14. You should have stared the video by kicking in the front door. Then try after you reinforce it. Also there is a giant glass windor or door, like 4 feet to the left, how do you reinforce that?

  15. Pre-drilling is not for your ease of install, its to avoid cracking wood. The wood will also crack less easily if somebody tries to get in with brute force. Using this on a cheap door that is not solid wood but instead made of thin panels of plywood is similarly pointless as somebody could punch or smash straight through the door and turn the lock.

  16. This is exactly what I was looking for. Thank You so much for this video, you are right on the money! AND, ignore everyone else's comments (fkn awesome dude).

  17. The front door has 2 window panes, the burglar will just break the glass and enter, didn't think of that did you?๐Ÿ˜‰

  18. You didn't line up the jam shield correctly. That 1/4 or 1/8 inch difference makes a huge difference. Over time the deadbolt might not fully engage.

  19. Just replacing most screws that go to the door frame with 3" screws probably provides comparable security.

    Spending $60-70 doesn't help much when you have a $15 kwikset deadbolt. This helps with kicking the door in. But there's many many more ways to get in.

  20. I am surprised by the ingenuity of the Americans, that type of doors we put in Spain in the interior rooms. For the entrance doors of our houses we use armored doors. I don't understand how they don't steal in your homes every day

  21. I painted my front door shut. Haven't opened it in years. Impossible to open. Good luck. Ive been using my garage as the main entrance for 20 years.

  22. 8:45 The purpose of that fitting is to prevent the wood from splitting and the deadbolt prying out the sheetmetal when the door is forced open. That is the point of failure if the deadbolt is fully engaged.

  23. A steel Murphy bars will stop every attack but car. Police officers hate them because it makes the door very hard to bust open.

  24. This is a interior door this can't be a front door it's a peace of junk.

  25. for anyone wanting to fortify their door save yourself some money and just go buy some three or four inch screws and replace the little tiny half-inch screws that come with your striker plates and just put big long three and a half 4 inch screws in also install 3 and 1/2 inch screws in the hinges and done and if you're buying a new front door buy a door that opens out for the most part that will solve your problem right away have you ever tried to go inside your house and kick the door open from the inside if the door opens inside your house you're relying solely on the striker plate to defend yourself if the door opens outthen you have three quarters of an inch of material on each side of the door stopping the door from being kicked in

  26. Do not use this video as a good practice guide. An impact driver is still, at best, going to weaken the wood, if you don't pre-drill first.

    A steel frame reinforcer is a far better option than plate reinforcement.

  27. I don't believe that dead bolt was in locked position when this girl supposedly kick open the door

  28. Unless u have a solid core door, replacing the screws for the deadbolt & handle is a waste. 2 1/2 screws into foam core does nothing. Good video otherwise.

  29. my girl friend had reoccurring issues so on her French doors I replaced all the screws on hinges and strike plates with 3.5 inch deck screw that I had three nights later while she was at my place someone attacked the French doors…. ย they battered the hell out of the doors (old style with real mullions) they got nowhere near gaining entry


  31. 3:53 don't listen to this fool you drill a pilot whole to lessing the stress on the wood nothing to do with the type of drill you use

  32. Hmm… I wonder if he should have pre-drilled? I think Iโ€™m gonna check the comments. Iโ€™m sure some helpful soul will address this…

  33. Why bother, when the locks look like something we Europeans use to keep toilet cubicle doors closed when occupied?

  34. More importantly, if i wanna get in your home, I WILL, most of these should be about saving time with, an assault. If a burgler wants to get in they will, the best you can do is cameras etc to deter, so get these vids right before you out brag yourself๐Ÿคช๐Ÿ‘Ž

  35. @2:34 They didn't put one 2.5 inch screw in because "they wanted to reinforce this hinge". They put it in because they stripped the hole with the shorter screw.

  36. So… your 15(ish) minutes of work added about six seconds to the process of forced entry. If you want to harden your door, you'll have to open the wall and reinforce the frame.
    Good presentation, though.

  37. Why don't you just use the iron door I'm not American. I'm really worried that all American families use wooden doors…. it's not safe

  38. Thanks for making this looks so doable! I think I can actually tackle this project w/o expecting my husband to do it all. And…I'll feel more secure in my humble abode after I'm done! (I hope ๐Ÿ™‚

  39. No matter what you do to reinforce your doors, the nearest window will open instantly with the slightest rap with a rock.

  40. Okay dude, there is NO such thing as "Burglar proof", I worked in building maintenance for over 20 years and in that time I never ran across a door that I couldn't get into and "Burglar proof" just means it'll take five minutes instead of one minute to get into. It's just a case that how much is the stuff in your house is worth and is it worth the trouble and now close you are with your neighbors. So "Burglar proof" is Burglar resistance to make your home more trouble than it's worth

  41. My Uncle Gus is old school….

    "Well, I'm ready for them! I got 50,000 volts running through the bar's over my window's. I got a bucket of battery acid over the front door, & a .30-06 rigged to the back door!"

    "But Uncle Gus," I had to ask, "How do you get IN your house???"

    He glared at me, & replied, "Wouldn't YOU like to know!"

  42. And if your to lazy to us the dead bolt I can be in your house as fast as you using your key and I will leave you no damage to your door bottom line dead bolt work

  43. The number one thing that heโ€™s not telling you is it is the door itโ€™s self you must have a strong reinforce design door along with a strong reinforce door frame that is already hard to kick in and that is built that way,Because if you have this kit and have a frenzy weak Unreinforced door and weak doorframe the burglars still can break in to your home so please get a high-quality strong security door and strong high-quality door frame and along with this security kit It will be very difficult or impossible for someone to break in, and also have proper lighting around your house in the back of your house and in the front of your house and on the side of your house with cameras. If you can afford it please do it that way.

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