How to Paint White

How to Paint White


What’s up guys, welcome back! This is part three on my series on the watcher
from the Malifaux range, we’ll be going over a couple of ways to paint white. Alright so
let’s get right into it. We’ll start off with a medium brown tone,
this is Old Mud by Secret Weapon. You don’t need to use Old Mud, you can start
off with any brown you like really, GW Dryad Bark or P3 Trollblood Highlight would both
work really well. I’ll mix in some Ivory to lighten it a little,
we don’t want to start off too dark, I’ll also add some of the Rucksack Tan in to warm
it up a bit. The reason I’m using Old Mud here is because
it’s a very high density pigment so it covers really well. When you’re doing light colours, it can be
a nightmare to get a smooth base to work over, so using the old mud is a good way to get
a nice clean coverage in only a couple layers. You can see now that it’s on the model it’s
a really nice subtle colour, it’s going to give us an excellent starting point for paint
white. For our first highlight we’ll just mix some
Ivory into our base colour. And we’ll begin to build up some volume by
blocking in where the light would be hitting the cloth, so I’m just trying to follow the
shape of all the little folds, and hit the areas around the neckline and the tops of
the sleeves. You don’t need to be all that worried about
brush strokes at this stage but if you try to be somewhat neat it’ll save you time later
on. The paint will go on looking very bright but
once it dries it’s going to flatten out quite a bit so don’t worry if you think it’s way
too stark when you put the paint on there. Just build this up over a couple layers until
the highlight is opaque. And we’ll do the same on the other side, just
picking out all the folds. This side is sculpted really well so there’s quite a lot of detail
to focus on. Next we’ll soften out the edges of our highlights
by adding some water to our highlight colour, thinning it down to a glaze consistency. And with a very small amount on the brush
we’ll apply the glaze, just at the edge of where our two colours meet, that’s going to
help blur the transition out a little bit, so the jump between colours isn’t so harsh. Notice I’m always trying to move the glaze
towards the highlight. We’ll do another highlight now, by mixing
in a little more Ivory. And we’ll just do the same as before, this
time focusing on a smaller area, just accentuating the brightest points, where the light would
be the strongest. So around the center of the folds and towards
the top of the neckline. I think that’s starting to look pretty decent. We’ll pick out a few of the details on the
shirt with some Old Mud now. I’m just going to line this crease at the
front of the shirt. And the same here on this little sculpted
on detail around the edges. Alright so now we’ll tidy up the edges with
some of our Ivory. For the pillow we’ll do white again but we’ll
add some grey to our base colour just to help give a slightly different tone, I’m using
Scale Colour Graphite but GW Dawnstone will work just as well. You can see how that looks now that I’ve blocked
in the colour. For our first highlight we’ll again just add some Ivory into the mix to
lighten it. And we’re going to apply this fairly roughly,
just sketching in a basic highlight, we don’t need to worry at all about blending this out. Add some more Ivory and we’ll start to build
up the colour, this time using stippling. So all I’m doing here is just letting the
tip of the brush bounce around on the surface, creating lots of little dots. You can see I do this quite quickly, just
letting the brush dance around on the surface of the pillow. I try to focus around the top of any little
folds or creases in the fabric. It’s actually quite a simple technique, it
lets you build up transitions fairly quickly and it gives you a really nice textured finish. If you’ve never tried it before I can highly
recommend giving it a go. All you need to do is apply more dots in the areas you want
to brighten. We’ll add a bit more Ivory now and continue stippling,
focusing more towards the upper side of the pillow and and trying to pick out some of
the little subtle ripples in the fabric. I haven’t sped this footage up, I think the
pillow took about ten minutes to do, definitely don’t be intimidated by stippling, as blending
techniques go this is actually one of the easiest to do, mostly because you don’t really
have to worry too much about accuracy, just keep adding little dots until you like way
it looks. Alright guys so I hope this has given you
a better idea on how to go about painting white. A big thank you to my very generous patreon
supporters as without your help I doubt I’d be able to continue making these videos. If you would like to help support the creation
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33 thoughts on “How to Paint White

  1. Brilliant tutorial,but I'm missing the subtitles (it is clear that there is nothing wrong in the way you speak, but reading them allows me to better understand what you are saying, as I'm foreigner and I don't live in an English speaking country. The automatically generated subtitles are, in the best of cases, weird).:)

  2. Awesome tutorial (as always ^^) Iโ€™m gonna give it a go on my Immortals for Eden the Game very soon. That is as soon as I buy some more baking paper, not trying it without a wet palette !

  3. wich paper are you using ?
    i got a sta-wet palette, the paper is really durable (compared to the p3 paper i had)
    but the paint will dry up and ''coagulate'' fast.
    if i try to make blend of paint it simply dry up fast

  4. Hello, Kujo. Id like to buy a mixing pallet like the one you use. Im a basic level painter who struggles with paint drying on the palette. I followed the ElementGames weblink you included but couldn't find one on their website. There seem to be a fair few stay-wet types. Which brand are you using?

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