How To Paint Weird Pale Skin For Malifaux

How To Paint Weird Pale Skin For Malifaux

What’s up guys, Welcome back, hope you all had a good time
over Christmas and New Year. We’ll be looking at how to approach a really
pale skin tone today. Just a wee caveat before we start, the colour
on the camera shows up a little less blue than in real life, once the new 4K camera
gets here we wont have that issue any more. Just in case you’re painting along and thinking
you’re getting a slightly different colour than on the video. To start we’ll be using Fantasy and Games
Miskatonic Grey for our base colour. it’s a pretty transparent paint so you’ll
have to apply this is 2 or 3 coats. It has a very subtle purple tint to it, it’s
quite a nice starting colour for doing cold whites. The next step is to wash quite heavily with
Games Workshop Drakenhof Nightshade. You can see I haven’t attached his arm yet,
I wash that seperately, I’m keeping the arm unglued just so I have an easier time of painting
the tunic. So once the wash has dried we’ll bring the
details back by building up the colour again with the Miskatonic Grey. We’re just applying it to all the raised areas,
leaving the wash in the shadows. So rather than blocking the colour in, I try
to create a bit of a colour transition over a few layers by letting some of the blue from
the wash show through in the darker areas , just to help create a bit of a blend before
we start to apply our highlights. For our first highlight, we’ll take some Vallejo
Red Beige and we’ll mix in some Vallejo Ivory to lighten it. We want to mix enough ivory into the biege
so that it’s roughly the same sort of brightness as our base colour. Now we’ll take some of that colour and mix
it into the Miskatonic Grey, and we’ll use that as our initial highlight. And I’m just pulling it over the surface,
letting it settle where I want the highlight to be strongest, so here at the tip of the
knuckles. And then I’ll highlight the upper part of
each muscle. On the face we’ll target all the usual spots,
so here, I’m pushing the paint up to the upper side of the eyebrow. Then I’ll do the upper part of the cheek. His head is quite heavily tilted, which is
going to leave one side in heavy shadow so we only really need to highlight this one
side, which is always a bonus. And we’ll do the little crease beside his
mouth. we’ll also do the top of the forehead, the
chin, the upper lip and the tip of the ears. Oh, and the tip of the nose as well. Alright, so add a bit more of your highlight
colour in there and we’ll go back to push the contrast a lighter higher. So apart from the knuckles here, we’re going
to be pushing the paint to the upper side of the surfaces, for all the muscles push
the highlight up to the highest point, but on the knuckles draw it down to the lowest
point. Here on the leg you can see I’m pull the paint
up to the top side of each muscle. We’ll be adding texture to all of this later
but for now we’re just building up the volumes, by trying to pick out where the lights and
darks would be. To continue mix some Valejo Ivory into your
highlight colour. And we’ll paint that onto the upper part of
the muscles. And now, using that same paint we’ll start
to add some texture by adding little dots of paint to the surface, notice I’m putting
some of these lower down on the muscle, just a few here and there, the dots will stand
out quite a bit on those areas, so you don’t want to paint a lot of them, just add a few
here and there and that will give you quite a good illusion of texture. On the arm we’ll do the same sort of thing,
first pushing the paint up to the upper side of the muscles, then adding some little dots
for texture. This arm is just blu taced on right now, it’s
easier to paint it when it’s attached to the model so you can get a better idea of where
the light would be. Same idea again on the bicep, just push he
paint to the upper part of the muscle. While that’s drying we may aswell work on
another section so I’ll just push the highlights a bit more on the knuckles here. by pulling the paint to the lower side of
the knuckles, letting it settle at that bottom edge. And again we’ll do the tricep the same way
as the bicep. Opps, slight mistake there, so we’ll grab a second clean, slightly damp
brush, and just pull the paint off the surface while it’s still wet. Alright so now that those parts are dry, we’ll
go in and add some of the texture, painting on our little dots over the surface. We’ll use the exact same process on the forearm,
pulling the paint up to the upper side of the muscle, and then once it’s dry we’ll add
a few little dots for texture. So it’s really up to you where you place these,
there’s no hard and fast rules to follow but if you try to make the spacing a little irregular
you’re going to get a better result. So be careful you don’t make them all the
same distance apart or you’ll build up a pattern and then it’ll look more like a painted on
design than surface texture and you don’t really want that. I’ll do a little more on the face, I’m going
to carefully add a little highlight here on the upper lip, I’m more of less edge highlighting
this, as it’s so small. Couple wee blobs on the nose there, and a
little on the eyebrow. Even though the face is so small I’m still trying to get a bit
of a blend going, just pushing the paint to where I want it. On the cheek we’ll put a few little dots,
to give it a bit of texture. And we’ll hit the top of the head just below
the horn. Then add a couple more dots just to push the detail level up a little. Then on the other arm we’ll just do the same
again painting on where we want the main highlight, then adding little dots to help blend it out
and add some texture. I’ve been experimenting quite a lot lately
with texture, it’s a lot of fun to do. Making everything really smooth is quite cool,
but it tends to make things look a bit artificial, texture puts a lot more life into the models. It’s good to be able to do smooth blending
, but I’ve definitely found myself moving away from that sort of thing. Alright so add a bit more Ivory, and a touch
of water to keep it nice and thin. And we’ll add another round of texture. This
time I’m not really blocking the colour in, I’m just going straight for the dots. Gotta be really careful on the face now, I
could lose detail very easily here, so I’m just taking my time and making sure the tip
of my brush is going where I want it before I commit to adding the highlights. I’ll add some thin lines on the kneecap to
look like creases. So we’ll just keep adding little dots to build
up our highlights and texture. For the last highlight we’ll use pretty much
pure Ivory. And I’ll just put a few little dots at the
top of each muscle, just to push the highlight that little bit further. Alright guys, hopefully that gives you some
more ideas on how to do a really pale skin tone. Keep your shadows dark and your highlights
bright and you can’t go far wrong. I’ll be painting the final model from the
Malifaux crew next then we can get stuck into the Cruz mini from raging heroes. Plus I should be recording them on the new
4k camera, I think that’ll make a big difference in quality, really looking forward to using
it. Alright guys, thanks for watching and thanks
for your support, it means a lot. Take it easy. Bye for now.

14 thoughts on “How To Paint Weird Pale Skin For Malifaux

  1. Always love your videos! What are the chances of your doing possibly a series of videos on painting their various hues of brown or black skin??? That would be awesome

  2. Nice vid mate as always, how do you keep your brushes so sharp? I use my once as carefully as I can and use conditioner/cleaner and yet they always hace a crappy wispy bit at the end or a rogue bristle! I use series 7 too…

  3. Hi. Masterful as always. Question: before you hit the basecoat, how did you get those deep shadows? You appear to have done some zenithal spray maybe. Was the model sprayed black initially?

    Keep up the videos!

  4. Where did you find this mini? Also, you are one of the best painting channels. Keep up the good work!

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