How to Paint Exteriors | Mitre 10 Easy As

How to Paint Exteriors | Mitre 10 Easy As


Painting your house will
not only improve its looks. It’s also the best thing
you can do to protect it from the elements. And in New Zealand’s weather,
that’s pretty important. A coat of paint
is your first line of defense against moisture. And with regular maintenance,
a solid paint job should last you a
good many years. Preparation is the key
when you’re painting, so I’ll show you how
to do it properly. Then we’ll get painting. I’m going to show you how to
paint exterior weatherboards. Now from the outset, this
house looks pretty tidy. But if you look really closely,
you can see a lot of bubbles throughout probably about
70% of the weatherboards. Now generally, bubbling happens
because of poor preparation, or applying paint on a
surface that is too hot or in the direct sunlight. Whatever your reason for
repainting, whether you’ve got crackly or bubbly
or flaky paint, the preparation is
pretty much the same. So our best friend in this sort
of situation is one of these. Very nice and cheap
Linbide paint scraper. This here is going to
do a mountain of work that a sander would
take hours to do. So the first thing we need to
do, before we do any painting, is prep the outside of
us with our scraper. Then we’re going to
come back with a sander. OK. Now just before I
crack into it, I’ve put on some protective clothing. Got gloves, a good paper suit,
and a really good respirator. The reason for this is there
may be lead-based paint in this old house. So I’ve also put
down a drop cloth that’s going to catch
any of the flaking paint. Now, if you think there
is lead in your paint, you might want to contact
the local authorities about the disposal
of that old paint. Now I’m going to use this
Linbide paint scraper, and I’m just going to remove
any loose or flaky paint. If your house is in
pretty rough condition, you’ll want to give it a water
blast before you get into it. OK. I’ve scraped back all the
loose and bubbly bits. Now you can see exactly
where all those bubbles were. And I’ve scraped that back
nearly to the bare timber, so I’ve got about six or seven
layers of paint in there. So what I need to
do is use the sander to feather that out so
it’s nice and smooth. Now, the best sort of
sander that you can use is one like this. It’s an orbital sander. It’s 125-millimeter. The good thing about
these is it’s aerated, so the disk isn’t getting hot,
so you’re not continuously replacing this as if you
were using a belt sander. Now I’ve got an 80-grit on here. If I find it’s not
sanding it back enough, I could probably go to a 60. But usually you start a little
bit higher and work your way down if it’s not doing the job. But otherwise, I think I’m
going to start with an 80, then I’ll work my
way up to a 120. Righty. I’ve sanded all the wall down. I’m just about ready
to put some primer on. Before I do that, I’m
going to give the wall a wipe-down with this damp
cloth, just to remove any dust or grit that’s left on there. Now, I’ve also taped
down our scriber using some masking tape. Now, just make sure the
type of masking tape that you use is going to last
the duration of your job, because we all know
taking masking tape off can be a tricky business. Now, so the type of
primer that I’ve got is a primer sealer and
under-coat all in one. Now, you can actually tent
your undercoat if you wish. It’s going to give you a little
bit more depth in your color. Now also just a little tip. Make sure you just work
out of a smaller paint container than
your original one, because we don’t want the
air to get too much to that. And I’m pretty much going
to paint the entire surface of this weatherboard,
because I’ve sanded pretty much the whole
face of it, and a lot of areas are back to the bare timber. So just to be safe,
I’m just going to paint the whole lot
of the weatherboards. And it’s going to give me
overall a nicer finish. Now, when you are using a
paint brush, great little tip for you, try and
buy the best quality paint brush that you can afford. The better the paint
brush, the better the finish you’re going to get. When you are painting
weatherboards like this, you are going to get
a better finish– once I’ve come right
to the middle here, I’m going to start
from the dry side and then work my way
back into the wet side. If I was to carry
on like that, I’m continuously getting these
little stop-and-starty paint marks, and it’s not
going to look as good as if I’ve come halfway
across like that, get a nice one
line straight, then I’m going to start from my
dry side and blend into it. OK. I’m just about finished
my primer undercoat. Now, I want my top coat to match
the rest of the house, which is the original paint color. Now, I don’t actually know what
that is, so what I’ve done, when I was scraping
the house down, I actually kept a little bit
of that sample of the paint. Now I’m going to take
that into Mitre 10. Using their color match
technology with Valspar, I can get that exact color
so everything matches up perfectly. Righty-o. All the primer is on. And I’m ready to fill all
my little gaps and holes. Now, there’s two
types of products that we use for
filling gaps and holes. One is our good quality
contract filler here. We apply that with a spatula. And then we’ll sand
it off once it’s dry. The other one is our
flexible gap filler. Now, once this goes on,
we can remove a little bit of the excess with a damp rag. But once that goes on,
it can’t be sanded, so don’t be too generous
and get too carried away. So I’ve punched all my nails. And I’ve also applied a
little bit of the rust killer over top of the bare nails, so
I’m ready to put on our filler. Use a good quality
exterior contract filler on the surface of
your weatherboards. And use a flexible filler in
between your weatherboards and around the joinery. OK. All my fillers are dry. I’m now ready to give the
wall boards and the filler a light sand back. I’m using a 180 grit on this
nice little easy-to-use hand sander. I’m going to put a dust mask
on, just to cover myself. And make sure you dust
down after sanding. Now, just before I
crack into my top coast, I’m just going to use a little
bit of this quick dry primer on the areas that we filled. I’m going to let that
sit for about 20 minutes, and then we’re ready
for our first top coat. Righty-o. All my hard work is done. I’m just about ready to start
painting my first top coat. Now, because this house
here is pretty old, I’ve decided to use a primer. The reason for that
was that’s going to hide any slight
imperfections that might be in the weatherboard. Now, if you’re painting a new
house, with this Valspar paint, it’s a primer and paint
in one, so you can just apply this straight
to the weatherboards. Now I’m using this nice big
wide 100-millimeter brush here. That’s giving me
plenty of coverage, pretty much covering
the whole width of that weatherboard as I go. And that’s a really good,
fine bristle on that. The good thing
about that is it’s going to give me a
really nice fine finish. Now, really important when
you are painting houses, you do want to be
painting in the shade. So now this is all
nicely shaded right here. We don’t have any
direct sunlight. If I did have direct
sunlight, what would happen is the paint would try to soon. And then later on, it’ll
bubble pretty quickly. It’s also important to
make sure it’s not too cold or damp when you are painting. When you’ve finished
painting your first coat, you need to leave it for at
least three to four hours before painting
your second coat. Now, the joinery in this house
is in fantastic condition, so we don’t actually need
to do anything to it. But if you’re in
the situation where you do need to give it
a paint, the prep work is all exactly the
same as what you’re doing for your weatherboards. Now, see this little line here
that is just up onto the glass? When you are painting
around your window, you want to come up about two
to three millimeters using some masking tape
so you’re actually painting from your putty
line up onto the glass. That way, you’re going
to get a really good seal so no water can get in between
the glass and the putty. Now, if your putty
is quite cracked, you will need to replace it,
because water will get in. So you can hack that
out with a putty knife. And then you want to
give that a prime using some oil-based primer. And then you want to apply some
window sash putty in there. Now, you might just want to read
the back of the label for how long it takes to dry before you
go and paint over top of it. Now one final tip. When you are painting
your windows or doors, make sure you have the windows
open when you’re painting them. You certainly don’t want to
be painting the windows shut. Check it out, a great
result. And it was easy as. Follow these steps, and with
the right prep and paint job, you can put away the brushes
for a good few years.

11 thoughts on “How to Paint Exteriors | Mitre 10 Easy As

  1. Just wonder why not to fix all the dents and cracks and gaps before putting the very first layer of primer? Any good reason? Thanks.

  2. Great vid – Wife & I used the product called floetrol that the paint guys recommended to add with our water based paint and it was a god send by not allowing the paint to dry too fast per stroke in the heat. Even better was the finished look, as it had removed the brush stroke look and looked like it had been sprayed finish – top product.

  3. Thanks for a great video how to. 👍👍 What about if the corners have metal on and they are bubbling and rusty.

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