Art of Perfumery, Daniel Krasofski Interview – Ep 9 pt 1 – A La Carte Los Angeles

Art of Perfumery, Daniel Krasofski Interview – Ep 9 pt 1 – A La Carte Los Angeles

Welcome to A La Carte Los Angeles for an episode with Daniel Krasofski hes a member of the IAO Institute right correct and Daniel you gonna explain what it is Well thank you very much for having me on the program, very happy to have you here at the IAO, The Institute for Art and olfaction is a nonprofit organization that works with artists independent artists independent perfumers as well as the the layperson who knows nothing about perfume but wants to learn about scent we collaborate with artists from all around the world at many different types of artists to implement scent in art as well as we also work with the average person who just wants to learn about scent scent is a very difficult subject to learn about so we here at the Institute offer information on how to create perfume how to use scent in an artistic way we also support the independent perfumers from around the world by offering an annual competition called the Art and Olfaction Awards we held the last awards at the Hammer Museum just a couple of months ago and we had perfumers from all around the world perfume and scent… scent… what’s the difference of perfume and scent? uh scent…there’s really no difference scent is sometimes refer to the sense of smell or anything that you smell as scent perfume is a very almost a very specific use of a product in modern times which would be for adorning the body to make it smell good scent when used in an art form is used to elicit an emotion one of the interesting things about the sense of smell is it brings back memories it brings about emotional responses so when working with an artist or within an art piece we’re using a sense of smell or scent to create an emotional experience in that respect the scent would not be considered a perfume in modern day terms so technically it would be a perfume but it’s more of a scent I see the difference now so now you have all those products we have all those points in front of you what do you want…what you what to do with it I mean you want to smell too bad you cannot smell, we can so I’m very curious about this, what is this well so many people are interested in perfume or in scent or even in flavorings which use a lot of the same materials and so what I wanted to show you is a couple of the variants of where the essences come from where the molecules come from how they smell on their own but also how they can be mmm synthetically made to kind of recreate what nature has made okay, so a lot of, alot lot of the raw materials that we use in perfumery or in scent creation is actually from natural materials so we’ve got geranium, rosemary, rose and jasmine these are actual plant materials that you can extract the scent from so for example like this is just a common Jasmine oh yeah which la smells like jasmine at certain times of the year and I brought some specific Jasmine extracts these are the actual natural extracts so we have rose here we got rose we’ve got Jasmine yeah that’s where all these visitors we have rosemary which as a chef you would yeah yeah no rosemary and a geranium this interestingly enough though geranium is not that strong the geranium flower has very little scent the actual comes from the leaves okay so I brought that just to look pretty so many essential oils and plant extracts actually come from the plant material those are considered what are called natural materials are essential oils are absolute but a lot of synthetic material is actually created from petroleum oh and from crude oil so if you can imagine petroleum is the soup of decomposing plants so housed within that petroleum are molecules and molecules and molecules of these plants so scientists have determined a way to actually break down the crude oil into specific molecules either directly through isolating that molecule or using different types of enzymes or chemical reactions to create different molecules so we’ve got some natural materials from the Jasmine and then we also have some synthetic molecules that are within the Jasmine okay so when you extract say rose oil or jasmine you need hundreds and hundreds of petals if not thousands and thousands and thousands of petals to create a very small amount of material which makes it outrageously expensive so the jasmine and each species of plant can have its own scent so I brought a jasmine grandiflorum and a jasmine sambac so you can smell the difference of the jasmine which also we’ll get into when we create so in just a moment we’re gonna use these little pieces of paper yeah how do you call that so this is a testing strip of new a a number of different we just call them scent papers there are technical names but so one of the best ways so you don’t get odor fatigue yes anything anymore oh yeah have you ever been in like a department store yeah and you just get overwhelming you can no longer yeah I’m very sensible to that I don’t like to go to those places because these although wedding yes and sometimes we can be a little overwhelming with all the molecules that we have here many places have the coffee beans and you smell the coffee beans and it kind of miraculously cleanses your palate we only know what coffee smells like so smelling the coffee kind of resets oh you know it’s like kind of erases it’s like drinking water or I mean between wine very similar another technique though is if you don’t have coffee beans you can just smell your own skin oh yeah your arm or if you really want to be crude it’s going to just smell your own your own body odor which then resets everything and then you’re able to smell again okay so when using a test strip one of the ways to avoid that loss of sense of smell is you use a technique like we call bunny sniffing almost like like a dog who’s sniffing around you’re just sniffing around or like a bunny like a little bunnies ghost you take little sips of air so that the molecules that are going over your olfactory bulb or the nerves have a combination of air and the scent it opens up the scent very similar to when you’re tasting wine and you take it next we were yeah yeah so we’re gonna make little bunny snips and one of the interesting things is also to recognize that natural extracts of say the rose or jasmine when they are extracted they have hundreds of individual molecules that make up that essence and when we’re talking about synthetics synthetics are aroma molecules or one single molecule that make up each of these vials so there’s about a hundred and fifty individual molecules in a natural and a synthetic is only one molecule so I dipped these last night and you can still smell the essence on them but what I want you to do is we’re gonna smell them to see if you can smell some of the different individual molecules all right so this first one is a grand of Florio and it has its jasmine tea but can you have you smell this next one this is a Samba and now comparing the sense I’m not too good at this comparing the sense do you smell almost like a barnyard scent or like almost a hay like yeah yeah yeah so that that hay like scent is actually this molecule called an indole okay and so have you ever picked a have you ever picked a a gardenia and it begins to turn brown on the edges maybe or if you seem like a jasmine sometimes it looks great yeah you bet or brown that actually is the indoor molecule auto-painting to decompose within the flower so this first one I’m going to read it so what you were smelling since this was dipped last night you’re smelling the base notes okay the the actual sense that last a long time so whenever you dip something into alcohol you want to wait about 20 seconds for the alcohol to evaporate so that you don’t get a whole new is full of alcohol so this is fresh jasmine oh yeah it is more fresh and this one is a Jasmine son buck and again waiting about 10 seconds for the alcohol to evaporate so in just a moment what we’re gonna do is gonna begin to recreate this okay so imagine I’m Cory we’re talking about when you do a perfume compared to the molecule actually I mean the the base so a great question there have you ever heard of like a Eau de Toilette yeah each of those delineate how much alcohol – how much essence so if you have an aftershave or a splash it has the most alcohol and water – essence and Oh de Parfum which is usually more expensive and sold in the very tiny bottles it has more essence – elbow okay so generally speaking and Oh de parfum which is very expensive very strong would have about 25 to maybe 40% at the very top 40 percent essence well to the rest alcohol we’re an aftershave would have maybe four to five percent essence to the rest alcohol and that Dutch bender price that everything or leagues because those Pro yourself pretty expensive you can can you give us arrange for example that and you told me about before that some produce couldn’t go for thousands of dollars for just a little bit can you yeah and that’s one of the biggest questions that people have about scent perfume or raw materials or essential oils is why are some very expensive more isn’t not expensive for exam I thought the jasmine in particular are two of the most expensive essential oils available in the market because if you were to take a fragrant rose and take just the petals you need a room about this size to make about that much in essence so this is a large room you need a very large amount of rose petals so that explains the price so the Jasmine has a multi-step process to actually extract the essence and you can see the petals of this particular common jasmine is very small it takes thousands and thousands and thousands of plants where for example one of these molecules a Jasmine lactone which is kind of the creaminess of the Jasmine can be synthesized at a much less expensive way and in create larger quantities so a Jasmine a pure Jasmine this is a in dilution with alcohol this is an approximately 5% dilution so 5% 5% Jasmine essence and then 95% alcohol if this were pure this would be approximately 400 – depending on the quality between 400 and 700 dollars it’s extremely expensive and then for some synthetics the same sized bottle of a synthetic Jasmine could be exponentially less expensive course there are some ingredients like orris root butter which a very small amount could be thousands and thousands of dollars but again very small amount has a dramatic of course okay so what’s the next that you want explained to us and very curious hmm so the next step is when you are when you’re working with a natural material it has hundreds of molecules already naturally occurring within it but they’re also very expensive so the next step would be to using special analysis determine what molecules are most present within a flower this is also a technique that can be used to analyze somebody else’s perfume so one of the reasons why perfumery is so secretive is that one scientist or one perfumer can take a couple of drops of somebody else’s perfume put it into a computer and it will spit out all of the individual models eyes so these are some of the different individual molecules within jasmine or what we know is a Jasmine Accord which is the synthetic building of a jasmine flower we’ve got a Jasmine all which is a molecule that has a very strong Jasmine scent we’ve got benzyl acetate sis Jasmine as well as hexanol cysts 3 and in dolls so we’re gonna mix all of those together in different quantities so for this first one we’ve got Jetta sis jasmine or again wait a couple seconds before you sniff it I’m gonna take my pipe back and I’m gonna be using about the equivalent of about 70 drops and when mixing perfume we use a scale to get everything absolutely correct and you take notes of course after everything always taking notes it’s so important that you Kate take notes write everything down you never want to reuse a pipette as well oh yeah yeah yeah make sense now this next one this is called adjustment lactone because when you smell a Jasmine it sometimes has a very creamy scent to it and so I’m just gonna take this is a pretty strong molecule so I’m only using but four drops for this particular Accord so right now we’re doing by randomly you or you know exactly what you need to do to what to get to the perfume that you put a scent that you want so one of the biggest things for a perfumer and for creating a perfume is lots of research and so before a perfume actually before I even go to a scale or to a container to create something I actually write it down you come up with the idea and then you break it down into the ingredients that you know that you’re working with that’s where you have to learn this entire library of sense to then write it down to then create something so I do have a formula that I have written down already this next one this is benzyl acetate which is also predominant in in jasmine it’s pretty strong molecule it is so this one we want to use after do we know whatever if you want a herb or whatever I’m using a little bit more of this one and our next is one of my favorite molecules it’s called hexanol cysts 3 or cysts 3 hexanol which has the essence of fresh-cut green grass this is yeah and this is amazing and again this is just one molecule so when you are cutting grass this that is know like euler’s going it into the air so i’m gonna only use a very small drop that and then lastly you’re in Los Angeles one of the one of the sense that’s very well known around the city is while orange blossoms but also jasmine and similarly both in Jasmine and in orange blossoms they are considered a narcotic sent Mimi thus ending brings about the euphoria ascent brings about kind of a narcotic scent so it’s classified as a narcotic when you smell jasmine for too long or orange blossoms for too long sometimes it can give you a headache er can be very heavy strong it can be very strong one of those one of the molecules that is so strong is what’s called an in doll so this is the note is the in doll by itself in dawn in doll is also found in different types of decaying matter including flowers and plants but also animal flesh so on some level the in doll creates a very animalistic or a very humanistic scent some people have even equated it to the smell of food so we use a very light touch of the in doll you thank you very much for watching the show I like calculus enjoy it see you next time

16 thoughts on “Art of Perfumery, Daniel Krasofski Interview – Ep 9 pt 1 – A La Carte Los Angeles

  1. Fantastic. The interviewer is becoming increasingly delighted and more relaxed because of the healing scents and also because the perfumer is very passionate, excited and happy.

  2. A French guy asks an American guy about making perfume!!! It's like a Mexican going to Russia and asking them how to make tequila. Or an Israeli going to the USA and asking them how to torture children.

  3. One of the frustrations în perfumery is the costs involved for the materials especially if you are a hobbyist. And it's true the beter the quality of oils you get the better your perfume would be. I was wondering whether some of you would be interested to buy collectively bigger quantities so we can reduce the costa. I think it can work out well especially if you around London. I currently need, musk, ambergries and sandal wood but open to other materials too. please send me an email and we can have a chat. I don't mind where we buy from as long as it's relible source. [email protected]@t

  4. Wow. Daniel is so calm and friendly. I picked up how nervous the host was for the first quarter of this presentation, yet Daniel managed to make him feel comfortable and intrigued. All that and he's a fantastic teacher! Very informative video. Thank you!

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